Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
AVENTINO
The Aventino is by far the quietest of the seven hills of Rome. High above the
bustling local neighborhood of Testaccio, the Aventino is mostly a lush residential
area for Romans and expats who appreciate its secrets and frown on visitors.
Ignore them and make the trek up from either the Testaccio side or from the
Circus Maximus. At the top of the hill on Piazza dei Cavalieri di Malta is one of
Rome's most famous keyholes at the door of the headquarters of the Priory of
Malta (clearly marked). Lean close to the circular opening (which really isn't a
keyhole anymore) to see a perfectly framed view of St. Peter's Basilica. Here you
are also looking at three sovereign nations: Italy, Malta, and Vatican City.
Next door to the famous keyhole, past the 24-hour guards, is one of Rome's
best preserved original churches, the 5th-century
Church of Santa Sabina
(Piazza
Pietro d'Illiria, 1),
which was built on the site of the original Titulus Sabinae, a
private home used for worship in 442. The church has changed very little; the
original wooden door (now with some replica panels) shows the life of Moses and
a crucifixion scene that is believed to be one of the earliest artistic portrayals of
the crucifixion of Christ. Notice the large windows that let in natural light.
A few meters from the church is one of this area's best kept secrets:
Orange
Park.
In the springtime, when the grove of clementine trees is in bloom, the per-
fume is intoxicating. But the view from the overlook terrace is what you make this
trek for; it is one you don't often see of the Roman skyline and Trastevere rooftops.
Down below the Aventino, you can't help but notice the massive and seem-
ingly out-of-place pyramid at the edge of the
Cimitero Acattolico (Protestant
Cemetery;
Via Caio Cestio, 6;
%
06-5741900; www.protestantcemetery.it; free
admission; Mon-Sat 8:30am-4:30pm).
Stop here to see the graves of both Keats
and Shelley. The pyramid is the mausoleum of a Roman family.
MUSEUMS OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
Across the square from Termini Station at the edge of Piazza della Repubblica is
the
Museo Nazionale Romano: Palazzo Massimo alla Terme
9
(Largo di Villa
Peretti, 1;
%
06-480201, bookings 06-39967700; integrated ticket
€
7 adults,
€
3.50 seniors and students; Tues-Sun 9am-7pm).
The collections of this museum
comprise a third of Rome's vast assortment of ancient art, represented by exhibits
depicting Roman history and how the artistic demands of the Romans have been
served over time.
On the ground floor is a vast coin collection alongside maps of trade routes
and audio and visual exhibits on the network of traders over the centuries. The
first floor has rooms of busts of emperors and their families. But the real draw to
this museum is the second floor, where you can see some of the oldest of Rome's
frescoes depicting scenes of ancient Roman life in lush gardens with wild animals,
dating back to the house of Livia on the Palatine Hill (p. 53). The art on this level
gives visitors an understanding of how wealthy Romans decorated their palaces
through the centuries. This is a museum that caters as much to non-museum-goers
as to those who can't get enough.
Across the Piazza della Repubblica is
Museo Nazionale Romano: Terme di
Diocleziano
(Via Enrico de Nicola, 79;
%
06-399677000; www.archeorm.arti.
beniculturali.it/sar2000/diocleziano; integrated ticket
€
7 adults,
€
3.50 seniors
