Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
79
and students; Tues-Sat 9am-7:45pm).
These were the largest of the hedonistic
Roman baths, dating back to 298
A
.
D
. and spread over 1 hectare (2
1
⁄
2
acres) on
what was then the city's edge. Visiting these baths should be done in conjunction
with a stop at the church of Santa Maria degli Angeli (below), which sits inside
the ruins. This is a great example of recycling old pagan ruins for Christian wor-
ship. In addition to the church, Michelangelo built a convent around the main
section of the baths, which could hold 3,000 people at a time. The juxtaposition
of Christianity, ancient ruins, and exhibit space makes this a compelling museum
stop. You can see multiple phases of Rome's history in literally one spot. The col-
lections of ancient art here make up the third part of a museum circuit consisting
of the Museo Nazionale Romana: Palazzo Massimo alla Terme (p. 78) and Palazzo
Altemps (p. 60).
The
Baths of Caracalla
(Viale delle Terme di Caracalla, 52;
%
06-5745748;
€
6
adults,
€
3.50 seniors and students; Mon 9am-1pm, Tues-Sun 9am-sunset)
are a
majestic set of ruins of some of ancient Rome's most popular thermal baths. Built
in 213
A
.
D
., the structure was basically a giant spa, where 1,600 Romans could
come to play and relax. There was a gymnasium for games, a swimming pool, and
a series of saunas and baths with varying temperatures and humidity levels. The
baths were decorated with intricate mosaic tiles, which are still evident in some
parts of the ruins. Others are preserved in the Vatican Museums (p. 70) and the
National Archaeological Museum in Naples. The baths are a popular venue for
operas during the summer (p. 77).
CHURCHES OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
A number of churches off the beaten track are still worthy stops, and not just for
religious pilgrims.
Santa Maria degli Angeli
(Piazza della Repubblica;
%
06-
4880812; www.santamariadegliangeliroma.it; 7am-6:30pm, Sun until 7:30pm)
is
an ingenious church, designed by Michelangelo, which sits snuggly inside the
Baths of Diocletian. A giant 45m (148-ft.) bronze meridian runs across the main
body of the church, which until 1870 was used to set Rome's clocks. On sunny
days, beams of light shine through strategically placed holes in the walls, lighting
up the points on the meridian and zodiac symbols. At the entrance of the church,
the dome forms a prism that reflects rainbows of light on the statues below.
San Giovanni
(Piazza San Giovanni in Laterano, 4;
%
06-69886433; metro
San Giovanni or buses to Porta San Giovanni)
is Rome's cathedral, making it the
second-most significant church in the Catholic faith, after St. Peter's Basilica.
Pilgrims visiting Rome can earn an Indulgence here, and this is the spot where the
Pope washes the feet of ordinary (but carefully selected) people each Easter sea-
son. On the giant facade of the church are statues of Christ, John the Baptist,
John the Evangelist, and the 12 Doctors of the church. There is a Giotto mosaic
in the apse, and a 13th-century cloister around the back of the church that fea-
tures some artifacts from the original church.
Across the street are the
Scala Santa (Holy Stairs;
Piazza di San Giovanni in
Laterano;
%
06-7726641; daily 6:30am-noon, winter 3-6pm, summer until
6:30pm).
These are said to be the steps that Jesus climbed before his crucifixion,
and were relocated to Rome in the 4th century. Now they are covered with
wooden planks, but are still as significant to the thousands of religious pilgrims
who climb them on their knees each year, reciting the 28 different prayers, one
for each step.
