Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Accommodations & Dining in Lucera
€€
A few new bed-and-breakfasts are currently popping up in Lucera, but hands
down, the best place to stay is at the more traditional
Albergo Al Passetto
555
(Piazza del Popolo;
%
0881-520821),
which offers very comfortable rooms and
unique ambience—the hotel itself is built right into the fortification wall that sur-
rounds the city—for around
€
70 a night. Book early, though, as this is the only
hotel inside the city walls.
(Via Caropresa, 9;
%
0881-549490)
is a top pick for din-
ing. It's definitely on the spartan side decor-wise, but they do an
orichette
(ear
pasta) with seafood that you will remember years later. If the weather is nice, ask
to sit out on the upper terrace.
Al Federiciano
55
€
€
A handful of new restaurants in Lucera are capitalizing on its growing popu-
larity and serving authentic local cuisine. If you've only got a few days, try the
Tavernetta
(Via Schiavone, 7-9;
%
0881-520055),
tucked away on a tiny
dead-end street behind the Duomo. Its pasta dishes are generous for the price and
the pizzas, which start at
55
€
3.50, are overflowing with fresh ingredients that vary
by season.
THE GARGANO PROMONTORY
555
The unrivaled other draw of the north is the Gargano Promontory (www.parks.
it/parco.nazionale.gargano/Eindex.html), home to Italy's last original forest, the
Foresta Umbra.
This lush national park is made up of ancient beech trees and
giant oaks. As you'd expect, it tends to be a haven for Italians in RVs in the sum-
mer months, making travel through winding park highways slow and cumber-
some (unless you can manage the drive mid-week, or mid-morning, when the
campers are mainly all in place). There are outstanding walking trails here, but
you need to stop at the main visitor center to get the most updated maps. The
open trails vary depending on seasons, which are spectacular as leaves change and
flowers blossom, and are also affected by wildlife migrations. So don't use an old
map. And don't just drive through here; lovely as the drive is, it's worth getting
out to explore and picnic.
The Gargano Promontory is also the site of the ancient
Pilgrim Trail,
which fol-
lows the narrow road connecting the towns of
Monte Sant' Angelo
555
with its
Santuario di San Michele Arcangelo (Sanctuary of Archangel Michael)
555
(free admission; July-Sept 7:30am-7:30pm, Oct-June 7:30am-12:30pm and 2:30-
5pm)
to
San Giovanni Rotondo
5
. Both are natural magnets for religious visitors,
but also offer sweeping views and fascinating architecture. The main altar of the
sanctuary, for instance, is built inside a cavern far below the church of the same
name. Legend has it that the archangel Michael first appeared here in
A
.
D
. 490 and
his footprint is enclosed behind glass for all to see just behind the altar. Even on the
hottest summer days, the religious “fashion police” will stop you at the entrance to
the grotto and give you a blue or yellow cape to cover up any offensive skin you may
be showing, namely exposed bellies, legs, and shoulders.
Outside the church, climb the hill to the
Castle
(
€
1.80; same hours as
Santuario di San Michele Arcangelo),
where you should go directly to the top to
catch the view of the terra-cotta rooftops of the cascading town of Monte
