Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Sant'Angelo and the carpet of treetops that make up the national park farther
afield. On clear days you'll see the Gulf of Manfredonia and the Adriatic Sea,
which is largely populated with trolling fishing boats and naval ships scouting for
terrorists and traffickers.
About 25km (16 miles) down the winding roads is the more religiously signif-
icant village of San Giovanni Rotondo
5
, which is the burial site of Italy's
beloved Padre Pio, a Capuchin friar who's a national hero in Southern Italy for his
ability to heal by touch. His picture (the one of the kindly, bearded monk with a
frayed frock and fingerless glove) dominates restaurants, coffee bars, and newspa-
per stands from Bari to Naples to Rome. This is an especially significant stop for
Catholics, but because the tiny village receives over 200,000 religious pilgrims a
year, it may be worth skipping during the summer months (unless you are a pil-
grim). In addition to the tomb of Padre Pio in the sanctuary below the church,
you'll find a 14th-century church of Sant'Onofrio, with a baptistery, and a 16th-
century church of Santa Maria delle Grazie. Monte Sant'Angelo is much more
rewarding, and both areas should be avoided on September 8 and June 29, which
are religious feast days marked by huge crowds.
If you're in search of a beach holiday, consider either Vieste
55
5
,
the two main seaside villages perched on and above the coast. The best beaches
are between these two villages, and the main road is lined with hotels and camp-
ing spots. The towns are similar, with Vieste edging ahead slightly for its tourist
amenities. It has a better Duomo and another Frederick II castle, which is closed
to the public and used as an Italian military base.
Because most people travel this coastline from Manfredonia on up, Peschici,
which is farther down the coast, is far less developed than Vieste. But Peschici is
starting to see a number of new restaurants and hotels. It also has fun street names
like Via Malconsiglio (bad advice) and Via Buonconsiglio (good advice), not to
mention the Vico Purgatorio (purgatory). This town is high above the coastline
and you'll want to think about that vertical positioning if you're here for a beach
holiday—getting to the sea means traversing many steps.
Accommodations & Dining on the Gargano Promontory
€€ Hotel del Seggio (Via Veste, 7; % 0884-708123) is one of the incompara-
ble deals on this coast. For 65 you get a large double room with a balcony and
view of the Adriatic Sea. The owner is a bit standoffish, but the rooms are nicely
appointed, comfortable, and quiet.
or Peschici
€€ Hotel Degli Aranci (Piazza Santa Maria delle Grazie, 10; % 0884-708557;
www.hotelaranci.it) is another top option, with rooms just 100 for a double
during high season. But be sure to ask for one of the “new rooms,” which have
been refurbished with hardwood floors and marble bathrooms. The older rooms
are not that great, which is why the refurbishment is in progress.
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(Mattinata; % 0884-582317;
www.agriturismogargano.it) you can choose between a variety of outbuildings on
an old farm, which are now comfortable bungalows with full kitchens. The small-
est one-room apartments start at
€€ - €€€
At Agriturismo Madonna Incoronata
86 in high season, and
the largest three-bedrooms are 148 at the most. This is a very viable option if
66 in low season and
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