Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
The most crowded spot you'll encounter on the entire island is the Piazzetta,
the main square, where visitors sit at restaurants under a ring of colorful umbrel-
las. These places charge a hefty price for even a glass of water, but they're the ulti-
mate place to people-watch. The square is where those who have come here to
shop cross paths with nature-lovers and honeymooners. There is so much going
on here, it's difficult to catch it all. Unfortunately, there's nowhere to sit but at one
of the four restaurants, and loitering in front of any of them isn't tolerated.
Customers are paying for the view, after all.
The city of Capri publishes a seasonal magazine called
Capri Press Guide
Magazine
in English and Italian, available at most coffee bars, hotels, and stores,
with maps of nature walks and events. Following these very detailed itineraries
will allow you to check off all the highlights of the island, though roaming aim-
lessly will do you no harm. For the best
views of the cliffs,
follow along to the
Arco Naturale
55
. The expensive boutiques and hotels are all along the
Quisisana. Be sure to visit the old monastery of
Certosa di San Giacomo
on the
far end of Via Matteotti, which has been recently restored thanks to a European
Union grant. It was here in 1656 that the Carthusian brotherhood of San
Giacomo, facing a plague, literally sealed themselves inside instead of tending to
the sick, as they were expected to do. The Capresi people, angry at being aban-
doned, threw the corpses of the plague victims over the monastery walls.
You can't go wrong stopping by the
Giardini di Augusto
(open dawn to dusk)
to relax in the
cultivated gardens,
or visiting the lookout point indicated on the
signs as the
Belvedere di Tragara
555
. From here you can see the famous
Faraglioni rocks
protruding from the sea.
Anacapri
55
, on the other side of the island, is like the country cousin of the
posh town of Capri. More rural than its swank counterpart, it has a slight
bohemian vibe. It is often said that until the mid-18th century, most of the peo-
ple in Anacapri had never been to the town of Capri—and vice versa. And the
accommodations here are much more economical, though the atmosphere is def-
initely more provincial.
The highlights of Anacapri are the detailed majolica tiles on the floor of the
church
Chiesa Monumentale San Michele
(Piazza San Nicola;
€
1; 9:30am-6pm),
in the main piazza, and the
Villa San Michele
(Viale A. Munthe;
%
081-8371401;
€
5; daily Nov-Jan 10:30am-3:30pm, Mar 9:30am-4:30pm, Apr-Oct 9:30am-5pm),
which was the home of the Swedish author Axel Munthe. The appeal here is the
tranquil gardens and songbirds.
One of the most enchanting adventures you can have on Capri is a visit to the
Grotta Azzurra (Blue Grotto)
555
(9am to 1 hr. before sunset).
Entrance is
€
4, but it will cost you at least four times as much to get there from the Marina
Grande. The average fare is
€
12 (
€
8 for the motorboat trip to and from the cave
and another
4.30 for the rowboat into the cavern). It's worth the cost because
the blue light inside the cave is mesmerizing. Geologists believe that this is a cave
that actually sank into the water, which accounts for its almost unnatural light
effects. It is dreadfully crowded in the summer months, but a great spot the rest
of the year.
€
€€
If you're staying on Capri
(and you shouldn't feel that this is a requirement
unless you're on your honeymoon or have just won a cache of cash), the best deal
