Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
A Suggested Itinerary
Base yourself in Amalfi and explore the coast from there. It's my favorite
of the villages at night, so you can easily spend your days out exploring
and your evenings in this enticing village. If you have 3 days, take an
early ferry from Amalfi to Sorrento and climb up into the town. Spend an
hour or so exploring the churches and shops before heading to the island
of Capri for lunch. There is plenty to do on Capri until sunset, so take the
last boat back to Amalfi and watch the sun set along the coast. Have a
late dinner here and take a stroll along the shoreline.
On your second morning, head straight to Positano on an early ferry
and take your breakfast at one of the many cafes along the ferry dock.
Then hike up to the town, climbing the stairs (which are the streets) to
the busy road on top. Don't forget to look back at the seascapes below.
Once on top, stroll down the main road, stopping in shops along the way
until you get back down to the church below. Depending on your penchant
for pottery and linen clothing, this can take anywhere from an hour to a
whole morning. Head back to Amalfi for lunch and then take the short walk
to the nearby beaches of Atrani for some serious sunbathing. (The
beaches here are cheaper and much less crowded.)
On your third morning, take the 1 bus up to Ravello, one of the
loveliest towns along the drive, hanging some 330m (1,100 ft.) above the
sea. It's a steep road, almost 6.4km (4 miles) long, with many hairpin
turns, so tour buses tend to skip it; coming here, you'll be able to escape
the worst of the crowds. From the main square, walk to the aristocratic,
15th-century Villa Cimbrone. Tour the vaulted cloisters and ruined chapels
and enjoy the evocative views over the bay. Stay for lunch in Ravello
before heading back down to Amalfi. A good choice is Cumpa' Cosimo
( % 089-857156; main courses 11- 29). The menu focuses on a range
of homemade pastas. If you're heading back to Naples to catch a flight or
train, take a ferry instead of the blue buses (unless the seas are rough).
In high season, the boat trip is likely to be shorter, as buses can get
caught in hour-long traffic jams.
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Capri is the romantics' favorite. This island practically demands public displays of
affection, so why not join the fun? When you get to the main port of Porta
Grande, head straight for the town of Capri, taking the funicular (
Capri
1.70) from
the main port. There are plenty of convertible taxis, too, if you've got luggage, but
if you're on a day trip, walk up the zigzagged streets to the top. Stop often and
gaze over the stone walls at the coastline below and the turquoise sea beyond.
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