Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
FASHION
High-fashion shops like
Ferragamo, Armani, Gucci, Versace,
and
Valentino
all
have boutiques around
Piazza dei Martiri.
For more moderate fashion prices,
you can't go wrong at
Carla G
(Via Vittoria Colonna, 15, Chiaia;
%
081-400005;
bus C25),
which offers very up-to-date fashion options at much more reasonable
prices (but certainly not with the impressive labels).
Italy's three mainstay department stores are all easily accessible.
La Rinascente
(Via Toledo, 340;
%
081-411511; bus: R1, R2, or R4)
is a moderately priced store
with clothing, undergarments, and perfume.
Coin
(Via Scarlatti, 88/100, Vomero;
%
081-5780111; funicular Montesanto to Morghen, funicular Centrale to Fuga,
funicular Chiaia to Cimarosa, or bus no. C36)
sells clothing, undergarments, per-
fume, and shoes.
Upim
(Via Nisco, 11, Chiaia;
%
081-417520; bus: C25)
is a bar-
gain shop with good quality merchandise, clothing, undergarments, and toys.
KITSCHY SOUVENIRS
Most of the main
piazze
have mobile stands selling the standard issue T-shirts and
soccer jerseys for
€
5. There is one store, though, that is a cut above:
Napoli Mania
(Via Toledo, 312-313;
%
081-414120; www.napolimania.com)
has everything
Neapolitan, including original T-shirts designed by the clever owners.
MUSIC
Neapolitan music is world renowned, and there are more musical-instrument sell-
ers per capita here than in any other Italian city. Most dealers are on the
Via San
Sebastiano,
where it's not uncommon to witness recitals and practice sessions.
There are also two music schools on the nearby Via Tribunali. In the morning,
you can often hear students of classical piano through the open windows.
NATIVITY SCENE
The best place to buy nativity paraphernalia is the
Via San Gregorio Armeno.
Since 1025, Neapolitans have taken great pride in the creation of figurines, sta-
bles, and other accessories for the Christmas crib. Just look up at the Certosa di
San Martino to see what craftsmanship goes into these works of art. But it's not
all serious. You can even pick up some Bill Clinton and Monica Lewinsky nativ-
ity figurines. Each year local and international newsmakers are reincarnated into
Mary and Joseph, and you never know whose face will grace the tiny baby Jesus
figurines. Among the best of the more traditional shops are
Maria Costabile
(Via
Benedetto Croce, 38;
%
081-5591186),
which does a great job with tiny food and
animals, and the slightly more upscale
Giuseppe Ferrigno
(Via San Gregorio
Armeno, 8;
%
081-5523148),
a long-established haven for collectors.
SWEETS
One of the few chains in Naples is the line of sweets shops called
Gay-Odin
(Via
Toledo, 214;
%
081-400063),
named after founder Isidore Odin, who fell in love
with his beguiling assistant Onorina Gay. Five locations sell scrumptious hand-
made chocolates and ice cream. It's a great place to pick up gifts as well.
Another great spot for handmade treats is award-winning
Dolce Idea
(Via
Solitaria, 7/8;
%
081-7642832),
which has three branches in the city. Famous for
the chocolate sculptures, they also do a great job with packaging for the trip home.
