Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Limoncello!
To some folks, Italy's
limoncello
is a nectar from the gods. It's a sweeter
digestivo
than Grappa, but no less potent. You should only drink it ice cold.
It's an exceptional treat when mixed with Prosecco (Italy's version of
champagne), and delicious on ice cream. But it's dangerously strong, with
around 35% alcohol content, which is hidden by its sweet taste.
Limoncello
is made from lemon peels, and when done right, it has no artificial preser-
vatives or coloring. Italians, especially in the south, believe that it's a
digestive aid after a big meal. It's hard to argue the merits of sipping a
cold shot of the stuff, especially when your waiter offers you a free glass
at the end of a meal. In many of the small
trattorie
off the tourist tracks,
it's not uncommon for waiters to lug a frosty bottle to your table
“a casa”
(on the house). You cannot miss the numerous stores selling the sweet
stuff, but the best place in Naples to buy it and learn about the process
is
Limone'
(Piazza San Gaetano, 72;
%
081-299429; 10am-2pm and
4-8pm).
They peel the lemons by hand and make their own
limoncello
right here using time-tested recipes. You're free to watch the process.
The basic recipe:
10 thick-skinned lemons
1 liter pure alcohol (or vodka)
2 pounds white sugar
2 liters water
Peel the lemons (remove wax first if necessary), put lemon peels and alco-
hol in an airtight container, and leave in the dark for 1 week, after which
time the alcohol should be yellow. Bring sugar and water to boil for 10 min-
utes, and then let cool to room temperature. Strain the alcohol into the
cooled syrup, pour in funky bottles, and seal. The experts say
limoncello
should be stored at room temperature when unopened, but in the freezer
when preparing to serve it.
NIGHTLIFE
The funny thing about Naples is that despite its incredibly vibrant energy during
the day, there is very little that goes on late at night. You'll find a handful of night-
clubs and discos, but the Neapolitans seem to prefer lingering over a long meal to
going out and dancing. Expect very few live music
concerts
and virtually no big-
name performers brave enough to come to Naples. Check the schedules at
Palapartenope
(
%
081-5700008; www.palapartenope.it)
on the off chance some-
thing is going on in town during your stay.
Generally, if you're looking for a
club
or
bar,
your best bet is the historical cen-
ter. Piazza Bellini is a popular hangout, where you can sip cocktails and beer at
quaint outdoor tables at any of the bars. A favorite is the
Intra Moenia
(Piazza
