Umbria - Italy - page 208

recent major quake, in 1997, resulted in five deaths and damage to the older
buildings, from which they have just recovered.
LAY OF THE LAND
Assisi isn't the simplest town to reach by train, but it's definitely doable. Assisi's
station is 4.8km (3 miles) from town, requiring you to wait for the half-hourly
bus, or take a

12+ cab ride. A walk to town up the steep roads amid heavy bus
traffic isn't recommended.
Trains from Rome connect through Foligno, a journey of close to 3 hours. It
takes about the same time from Florence, transferring at Cortona. Perugia is only
a 30-minute train ride from Assisi's station. Buses also connect Assisi to Perugia
and Gubbio and parts beyond via the bus terminal at Piazza Matteotti.
The drive to Assisi is about 193km (120 miles) from Rome, 177km (110
miles) from Florence. Take SS3 from Perugia, then the SS75 in the direction of
Foligno. The Assisi exit drops you in the modern lower town (Santa Maria degli
Angeli), where you have to keep your eyes open for signposts to Assisi.
Parking is pretty much impossible in town, but it's available in a variety of pay
lots for about € 11 per day, € 1.50 per hour. If you're willing to walk a few extra
blocks, free parking can be had below the pay lots at Porta Nuova, in the road or
in the dirt lot across from the hospital. The Porta Nuova lot has a covered escala-
tor reaching town level. You can also drive around the city to reach free street
parking on the approach to the Rocca, thus avoiding the steep hike up there.
Assisi's tourist office ( % 075-812534) is on the west side of Piazza del
Comune. It has the usual maps of the city, as well as a good collection of
“Franciscan Itinerary” hiking and site guides for the area around Assisi. The office
is open from 8am to 6:30pm during summer months, and closed 2 to 3pm week-
days and at 1pm on Sundays from November to March. The official website
(www.umbria2000.it) is weak; try the independent www.assisionline.com for
better information in English.
ACCOMMODATIONS, BOTH STANDARD & NOT
Assisi is the place to try a stay at a monastery, convent, or religious retreat.
There are over a dozen in town and an equal number scattered in the general area.
Staying in this type of accommodations, you'll absorb more of the religious spirit
of Assisi. As always, these lodgings tend to be much cheaper than standard accom-
modations. Note: It's very important to reserve well ahead when you're visiting
Assisi--rooms fill up, particularly during Easter and other religious holidays.

€

€ Catholic-school flashbacks aside, there's no reason whatsoever to be intimi-
dated by the French nuns at the Monastery of St. Colette

5

(Borgo San Pietro,
3; % 075-812345; Apr-Oct; no credit cards). They're a friendly bunch (just take
a peek at the bulletin-board photos of them partying on their retreats) who love
welcoming travelers to Assisi. The sisters offer 19 basic but recently refurbished
rooms with one to three beds for 26 per person. Even better, they throw in free

parking, impose no curfews, and offer great suggestions for low-cost places to eat
in the neighborhood. There's also a lovely garden and several lounges where guests
can relax.

€