Umbria - Italy - page 207

ASSISI
Assisi is a typical Umbrian village that happens to be the hometown of St. Francis.
Don't be put off by the busloads of visitors. St. Francis's Basilica isn't a standard
tourist attraction; it's home to some of the finest art in Italy, and remains a deeply
spiritual pilgrimage site. And beyond the Basilica and the souvenir stands lies a
peaceful medieval town full of natural retreats in stark contrast to the flag-waving
group tours. Every visitor should explore it: from the peaceful Erme delle Carceri
to the panoramic views from the ruined fortress standing above Assisi.
DON'T LEAVE ASSISI WITHOUT . . .
VISITING THE BASILICA One of the top sites in all of Italy, the massive
church is notable not only for its magnificent artwork (including Giotto's fres-
coes), but also because it's a major pilgrimage destination.
GOING TO ST. FRANCIS'S RETREAT ON MOUNT SUBASIO Take
some time to enjoy the calming Erme delle Carceri, the spiritual retreat of St.
Francis, far from the commercialism of central Assisi.
CLIMBING THE ROCCA TOWER Take in spectacular 360-degree views of
Assisi and the wilderness on the other side of the hills.
A BRIEF HISTORY OF ASSISI
Assisi had the usual history of an Umbrian hill town: Umbrian tribal origins,
Etruscan influence, Roman colonization, barbarian invasions, a sacking by
Barbarossa. The usual history, that is, until St. Francis and his female counterpart
St. Clare were born at the end of the 12th century (see “The Life and Times of
St. Francis” on p. 213). And then Assisi took off, becoming one of Italy's major
centers for religious pilgrimages. Following papal approval of Francis's new sect in
1210, and the increasing popularity of his preaching, Assisi began to attract its first
hordes of followers. After Francis died in 1226, the massive Basilica project began.
Contrary to Francis's teachings of poverty and simplicity, the Pope and some of
Francis's followers directed the construction of the epic structure over the next 20
years. The Basilica has been a steady pilgrim and tourist attraction ever since.
After the time of Francis, Assisi suffered from continuous attacks--as much
from within as without. For nearly 200 years, Assisi's Parte de Sotto (lower part)
fought the Parte de Sopra (upper part) in almost continuous factional battles for
control of the city, which then left Assisi open to be sacked and looted by invad-
ing forces no fewer than four times. It is no wonder that in 1578, the writer
Cipriano Piccolpasso found Assisi to be “a poorly arranged city where one sees
many abandoned and ruined houses . . . they are unpleasant people, not very
courteous to foreigners nor even to each other.” For good measure, Napoleonic
troops invaded and looted the city (was there anything left?) in 1808.
Times have changed. The city is now quite prosperous and well maintained,
owing to the continuous tourist and pilgrim trade. The many religious seminar-
ies, workshops, and festivals create an atmosphere of spirituality, while the now-
courteous residents make a good living serving an army of visitors. The only
danger comes from the earthquakes that continue to shake the city. The most