Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
€€
For a creative approach to the popular Umbrian dishes, walk behind the
Duomo to
La Lanterna
(Via C. Monti, 33/H, and Via U. Rocchi, 6;
%
0743-
44592; closed Wed),
which features such novelties as
ravioli all'arancia
(orange
ravioli with rose petals) and gnocchi
alla lanterna
with truffles and spinach topped
by a cheese crust. Pasta dishes range from a reasonable
5
10 for
anything with truffles (less without); a half-liter of the house wine is just
€
3.50
and the food is scrumptious. The setting is also quite charming: You'll have the
choice of dining in the medieval subterranean restaurant, or in the hidden, wiste-
ria-draped alleyway garden lunch area (both are lovely). My only quibble? You'll
give back some of the savings with the
€
2
coperto
(cover charge).
€
7.50 to about
€
€€
For a true multicourse, multihour Italian feast in a traditional setting, go to
Trattoria Di Borgo
5
9
(Via della Sposa, 23/a-27;
%
075-5720390; Mon-Sat,
sometimes closed Mon).
Here both the restaurant and garden backyard dining
area are packed until well past 11pm nightly, with a mostly local crowd devour-
ing Umbrian specialties. Pastas range from
10,
secondi
(second plates)
from
€
8 to
€
16. I especially enjoy the
tagliatelli al tartufo
(homemade pasta with
truffles) for
€
6.50 to
€
4.50), though
some may find the “mystery meats” on the plate a bit off-putting (but do try
them, they're delicious). For
secondi,
order the juicy
maialino all perugino,
a pot-
roast-type ensemble with veggies and mushrooms for
€
8.
€
7 and the mixed meat appetizer (
misto di salumi,
€
€€
If you're looking for a little more elegance with your meal, as well as a wide
variety of local tastes, order the
€
19
degustazione
(tasting) menu at
Osteria del
Gambero
(Via Baldeschi, 9;
%
075-5735461; www.osteriadelgambero.it).
It's a
sophisticated, simple place that's simply crazy for truffles. In season, you'll find
truffle-enhanced sauces for its pasta courses, truffles on the meats, even truffles
mixed into the seafood dishes. For a strong-tasting alternative to pasta and grilled
meats, try the sea bass
(spigola)
with greens, capers, and olives, for
11. Other
primi
cost
€
7.50, and
secondi
are all priced at
€
11. Wine-lovers will appreciate
the wide, thoughtful collection.
WHY YOU'RE HERE: THE TOP SIGHTS & ATTRACTIONS
For Umbria's best collection of medieval and Renaissance art, displayed in a ren-
ovated museum, visit the
National Gallery
€
55
(Palazzo dei Priori, 4F, entrance
at Corso Vannucci, 19;
%
075-5741247;
€
6.50 or as part of the Perugia museum
pass; Tues-Sun 8:30am-7:30pm).
Its paintings, altarpieces, and stained-glass dis-
plays are spread through well-lit rooms, and are explained by bilingual inscrip-
tions. It seems as though three-quarters of the works depict the Madonna and
Child, so don't come expecting a variety of subjects; but you'll be able to explore
in depth the variations on the Madonna theme from Byzantine times to the early
Renaissance (see “Mamma Mia, Another Madonna & Child!” below).
The gallery culminates in
Room 23
with favorite son Perugino's greatest
works. He taught painting to Raphael, collaborated with Pinturicchio, and earned
consideration by art historian Vasari and others as a worthy peer to Michelangelo
and da Vinci. Look at the innovative colors, poses, and landscapes he brought to
traditional themes like
The Adoration of the Magi,
the
Pietà,
and his
Madonna
della Consolazione.
