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bill, and none of the lodgings will accept credit cards. Apartments are generally in
the university area north of the historical center, some a bus ride away. If you're
planning to be in the area for a while, and are on a tight budget, this could be a
good call.
- €€ Hotel Priori (Via dei Priori, 40; % 075-5723378; www.hotelpriori.it) is
a good deal in the historical center featuring simply decorated but fairly spacious
rooms with terra-cotta floors. They aren't exactly high end, but they'll do for a
decent night's sleep. And the prices can't be beat: as little as 40 in the off season
(up to
95 for doubles. I'd recommend in particu-
lar rooms 355 and 353, which are nicely refurbished doubles with air-conditioning,
though these can cost up to
66 in high season),
60 to
115 in high season. The hotel also has three huge
suites with kitchenettes, period decor, and space for a family of four. These, how-
ever, are available only for long-term stays:
1,100 a month. The
Priori's balcony is a pleasant place for breakfast, but beware of the ravenous
pigeons. Internet access is available in the basement meeting room.
500 a week or
5
€€ - €€€
(Piazza
Italia, 19; % 075-5720841; www.perugiaonline.com/larosetta), which offers a
wide range of choices for all budgets. The hotel has refurbished its first-floor
rooms to resemble those of an 18th-century palace, with frescoes, vaulted ceilings,
and chandeliers in the large superior doubles. Above are less pricey digs, with
lower ceilings and more modest furnishings, but all rooms come with satellite TV,
minibars, safes, and air-conditioning. Doubles start at 65 per person. The hotel
itself has a restaurant on-site (which provides room service) and a concierge. It's
quite nice and, with 90 rooms varying in price, size, and view, most visitors will
be able to find something to meet their needs and budget.
An even better choice is the well-located La Rosetta
€€€€ For a splurge in the center of town (honeymoon, anyone?) the Hotel
Brufani Palace
(Piazza Italia, 12; % 075-5720210; www.brufanipalace.com)
lives up to the “palace” part of its name. Rooms are traditionally decorated, with
a lavish 19th-century feel (the hotel opened in 1884, so think velvets and silks and
patterned wallpapers), but fully modernized with large bathrooms. Prices are over
the top in high season (
5
320 a night), but at quieter times of the year, I've seen
this hotel go for as little as 130 on Expedia.com. The Brufani has spectacular
views over the valley from its enviable position on a hilltop in the historical cen-
ter of the city (at the end of Corso Vanucci at Piazza Italia). It even has a subter-
ranean stone chamber with a small swimming pool and exercise equipment, a
rarity in Italian hotels.
DINING FOR ALL TASTES
For the cheapest eats, follow the students. Go north of the city walls and into the
smaller alleys around the Università per Stranieri for a variety of affordable din-
ing options. Corso Garabaldi, due north of the Etruscan Arch, has four cheap
pizzerie, a kabob shop, a creperia, and two bars in the space of 2 blocks. You can
fill yourself for under
10 at most of these spots (just don't expect health food).
You'll also want to stop off at one of the city's many chocolate shops, as the city
is rightly famous for its sweets (the chocolate gelato here is the best in Umbria).
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