Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Access to sandy
Nolton Haven
is easier, with parking, shops, and cafes. And then
you come to the pride of St Bride's:
Newgale
, a beach that will stay with you
forever. It's where the A487 from Haverfordwest to St. Davids hits the coast, plunging
down the hill into a heavenly vista with cliffs rising at either end. The flat, perfect
sand stretches for 3 miles and the road squeezes between it and the Sands cafe, a
pub, a couple of shops, and a busy campsite. There's pay parking (free for cafe users).
No matter how many times you come, it's always different thanks to the undulating
western light; sometimes in the morning the cliffs are shrouded in sea mist, sunlight
filtering through the haze, but by late afternoon the skies can be awash with gold.
ST. DAVIDS
St. Davids is thought to be the birthplace of the patron saint of
Wales. Dewi Sant (later St. David), a Celtic religious leader in the 6th century, set up
a small monastic community here. The wooden church was burned or torn down
several times until the Normans built one of stone. The town grew up around the
church.
Today, with its ornately carved roof and a Norman nave,
St. Davids Cathedral
(
&
01437/720199;
www.stdavidscathedral.org.uk) is a magnificent example of
medieval religious architecture. It sits in a rural spot on the edge of town and contains
what are said to be the bones of St. David. The nave is a place of medieval beauty,
and the choir stalls, from the late 15th century, have lighthearted carvings. Entry is
free, daily from 8:30am to 6:30pm. In July and August there are tours from volunteers
(free, although a £4 donation is suggested).
The
Bishop's Palace
ruins (
&
01437/720517;
www.cadw.wales.gov.uk) stand
across the meadow and river, with gatehouse, battlements, and curtain walls. An
outstanding sight is the elegant parapet that runs along both main walls. The site is
open April to May and October daily 9:30am to 5pm, June to September daily
9:30am to 6pm, and November to March Monday to Saturday 9:30am to 4pm and
Sunday 11am to 4pm. Admission is £3.10 for adults; £2.70 for seniors, students, and
children 5 to 15; and £8.90 for a family ticket.
WHITESANDS
This is a splendid beach, 2 miles northwest of St. Davids
(take the A487, then the B4583). Access is free, but there's a £2 parking charge.
Swimming is largely safe, and there are dunes to play in, beach shops, and cafes.
Whitesands is also considered to have some of Britain's best surfing, and there are
exhibitions with participants from as far away as California. From here you can take
boat trips out to the RSPB reserve of Ramsey Island.
POPPIT SANDS
This is the final beach in Pembrokeshire before you cross
into Cardigan (Ceredigion), and one of the few accessible beaches in the immediate
area. It is a massive, flat expanse of sand, thanks to its position at the mouth of the
River Teifi, backed by dunes, with striking views of Cardigan's cliffs. To find it, turn
off the A487 just south of Cardigan onto the B4546 and meander through village
lanes (including St. Dogmaels, where the Pembrokeshire Coast Path officially starts/
ends) until you arrive at the shore where you'll find people cramming cars onto the
verge to escape the parking fee. It is a wonderful, if windy, spot, and you might also
see seals and dolphins. There's a cafe selling homemade cakes.
Where to Eat
Cwtch
MODERN WELSH Smart, hip, and family-friendly, Cwtch
(pronounced
cutch
, which means snug) is a gem. It's a place that has a children's
menu tempting older children rather than assuming everyone under 16 wants
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