Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
York is also a great place to shop for food, with lots of delis and local food stores: Try
Demijohn,
11 Museum St., (
&
01904/637-487
), for handmade British wines, spirits,
oils, and vinegars bottled to order;
Henshelwoods,
10 Newgate (
&
01904/673877
),
for award-winning cheese;
Olio and Farina,
3 Blake Street (
&
01904/670885
), for
Italian specialties;
The Hairy Fig,
38-39 Fossgate (
&
01904/677074
), for “on tap”
vinegars, oils, fig vodka, and more;
The Yorkshire Food Company,
130-134 Mickle-
gate (
&
01904/630497
), for local food and drink, much of it organic and fair-trade;
and
The Yorkshire Pantry,
18 High Petergate (
&
01904/675100
), for much of the
same. York also has a daily open-air
market
with more than 100 stalls.
For more foodie treats try the
Balloon Tree Farmshop and Café,
at Gate Helmsley
between York and Bridlington (
&
01759/373023;
www.theballoontree.co.uk), and, in
Harrogate, the award-winning
Weeton's Farm Shop,
23/24 West Park (
&
01423/
507100;
www.weetons.com) and
Fodder
(
&
01423/546111;
www.fodderweb.co.
uk), the latter based at the Great Yorkshire Showground a couple of miles from the cen-
ter and unique both in that it ploughs profits back into the community and has its own
80-seat cafe.
Harrogate
is also good for boutiques and designer shops (Parliament Street
and Montpellier Quarter) and independent stores (Commercial Street and around).
Entertainment & Nightlife
Yor k
is said to have a pub for every day of the year—more per square mile, some
claim, than any city in the country—but unlike Leeds it's lively rather than rowdy,
except around the Micklegate area (including Rougier Street). Stick to laid-back
Goodramgate and the Swinegate area, where you'll find a good mix of traditional pubs
and swanky bars appealing to all ages. The Coney Street area is the most upmarket.
The oldest pub in town,
Ye Olde Starre Inne,
on Stonegate (
&
01904/623063
),
has a beer garden with Minster views.
Outside York, North Yorkshire tends to be quiet on the nightlife front, although
there are many convivial country pubs offering folk and other live music. For culture
vultures, Scarborough's
Stephen Joseph Theatre
(
&
01723/370540;
www.sjt.
uk.com) has hosted the premieres of most of the plays of award-winning playwright
Alan Ayckbourn, who lives in the town.
Where to Stay
VERY EXPENSIVE
The
Yorke Arms
(p. 649), in the Nidderdale valley, has chic rooms.
Feversham Arms & Verbena Spa
This haven of luxury in a Moors
market town has some suites suitable for families, but it's not the kind of place to
bring energetic toddlers, for fear of disturbing the contented guests enjoying cream
teas in their bathrobes by the outdoor pool (heated year-round). In any case, you'll
want to install yourself in the spa—one of the U.K.'s very best, with a large chill-out
area (low-lit by scented candles) and a bar and light-meals menu. The “Petite Double”
rooms in the older part of the building are cozy, but once you've clocked the poolside
or spa suites, you'll sell your soul to upgrade. The
restaurant
is overseen by a
Michelin-starred chef, so think about a half-board option. Rievaulx Abbey is a pleas-
ant walk away (3 miles), but you'll be loathe to leave the premises.
Helmsley, North Yorkshire YO62 5AG. www.fevershamarmshotel.com.
&
01439/770766.
33 units.
£180-£270 double; £340-£460 suite. Rates include Yorkshire breakfast (half-board option available).
AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking.
Amenities:
Restaurant; bar; babysitting; outdoor heated pool (year-
round); spa.
In room:
TV with DVD/CD player, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).
17
