Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
wood-burning stove), this is an appealing all-day option in the hiking center of
Hawes, serving breakfast and morning coffee and cake through to afternoon tea and
dinner. As popular with locals as with visitors for its fair prices, it's great for warming
soups and tasty sharing platters for two—try The Big Cheeses, featuring four Dales
cheeses served with chips and pickles. Main courses might include a pie of the day,
black pudding topped with Ribblesdale goat's cheese with red-onion marmalade and
raspberry dressing; or slow-roast pork belly with a creamy apple, butterbean, and
thyme sauce, but vegetarians are always well catered for, and there's snackier fare
including burgers, “butties” (sandwiches), and salads.
Market Place, Hawes. &   01969/667145. www.chastehawes.co.uk. Reservations recommended (eve-
ning). Main courses £6.95-£9.50. MC, V. Tues-Sat 10am-9pm, Sun 11am-5pm.
Falling Foss Tea Garden ENGLISH TEA/SNACKS Five miles
outside Whitby, this magical venue is on the woodland grounds of a former game-
keeper's cottage and is a lovely stop-off for walkers doing the coast to coast trail. It's
a great spot to bring kids, who will love exploring the ancient forest before or after a
light lunch, cream tea, or ice cream. They can also paddle in the beck, play Pooh
sticks on the footbridge (sticks provided), or use the wooden play area while you relax
over a pot of tea. The Hermitage, a hermit's cave carved from stone, is a 5-minute
walk through the trees. The homemade cakes and scones, sandwiches, and light
snacks are made from mainly local ingredients. This is a garden, not a tearoom, so
opening is subject to the weather, though amid the gnarled apple trees there is a yurt
with a log burner.
Midge Hall, Sneaton Forest. &   07723/477929. www.fallingfossteagarden.co.uk. Main courses £2.50-
£4. No credit cards. Usually Apr-Oct daily 10:30am-5pm, but call to confirm, especially if raining.
Humble Pie and Mash TRADITIONAL BRITISH It's not all about fish
and chips in Whitby—pies freshly made using free-range meat and organic pastry
bring lovers of hearty old-fashioned English grub to this restored 16th-century shop
with its open fire, 1940s' chintz, and soundtrack of wartime hits. Best eaten with
mash, peas (garden or mushy), and liquor or gravy, the pies include slow-braised stout
and leek, or Yorkshire sausage and black pudding, but also come in vegetarian incar-
nations, the most popular of which is Romany hommity pie with potatoes, garlic,
onions, and cheese. With pie meals costing less than £5 and kids' prices for pies,
sausage and mash, or sausage sandwiches, this is a great place for a budget-conscious
but filling family lunch or supper. Take it easy if you're hoping to fit in one of the
scrumptious desserts; jam roly poly (suet pudding with jam) is the star. Note that
there's no drinks license. Takeout is available.
163 Church St., Whitby. &   07919/074954. www.humblepienmash.com. Main courses £4.99. MC, V.
Mon-Sat 12:30-8:30pm, Sun 12:30-5pm.
Shopping
Yor k is the region's shopping highlight. Don't miss the cobbled Shambles; voted
Britain's most picturesque street in the Google Street View awards, it's lined by
wooden-framed buildings that lean so far across the narrow alley that some of their
roofs almost touch. Once the city's meat-butchering center, it's now home to shops
and cafes, many selling jewelry (a highlight of York shopping). York's antiques dealers
tend to congregate on or around Gillygate; for independent one-off stores, try Stone-
gate. On the city outskirts, the York Designer Outlet ( &   01904/682720; www.
yorkdesigneroutlet.com) has more than 100 upper-end brands under one roof, sold
tax free and at up to 60% discounts.
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