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the now-obligatory “communal” table. But if you order one entrée,
make sure it's the sizzling short rib; tender and removed from the
bone on top of a bed of mushroom chow fun.
75 Ninth Ave (at 16th St.). & 212/989-6699. www.buddakannyc.com. Dim
Sum-appetizers $9-$13; main courses $17-$35. AE, DC, MC, V. Hours: Sun-Wed
5:30pm-midnight; Thurs-Sat 5:30pm-1am. Subway: A, C, E to 14th St.
Cookshop AMERICAN On far-west Tenth Avenue, with a
prime view of a garage across the street, Cookshop is brawny and
boisterous with food to match. Seating can be tight and you would
hear your neighbor's conversation if it weren't so loud in the restau-
rant. But never mind, enjoy the chef 's creations. A pizza with shaved
king oyster mushrooms and stracchino cheese or the grilled Mon-
tauk squid in a salsa verde make good starters to complement the
restaurant's innovative cocktails. Or combine a few of the snacks
such as the fried spiced hominy or the smoked pork tacos as starters
for the table. Cookshop offers entrée options in four categories:
sauté, grill, wood oven, and rotisserie. The whole roasted porgy, head
and all, cooked in the wood oven is moist and full of flavor, while
the chile-braised beef short ribs served over cheddar grits from the
sauté section are tender to the bone. Service is efficient and helpful.
156 Tenth Ave. (at 20th St.). & 212/924-4440. www.cookshopny.com. Reserva-
tions recommended. Main courses $21-$36. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon-Sat 5:30pm-mid-
night; Sun 11:30am-3pm and 5:30-10pm. Subway: C, E to 23rd St.
MODERATE
La Nacional SPANISH/TAPAS It's not easy finding the
oldest Spanish restaurant in New York; in fact, the search for this
unmarked restaurant on West 14th Street might get you a bit frus-
trated. Once you find it, though, you will be rewarded. Founded in
1868 as a gathering spot for the Benevolent Spanish Society, La
Nacional, a social club, is a hidden treat. At one time food was sec-
ondary to the company of Spanish expats who congregated here, fill-
ing the room with smoke and loud talk of Spanish politics and
football. It was here where Gabriel Garcia Lorca spent countless
hours documenting his New York City experience. The cigarette
smoke has been replaced by the smoke of the grill, which turns out
tasty tapas like sardines, octopus, and shrimp. There is a somewhat
formal dining room in the front, while in the back, next to the open
kitchen, there are a few tables and TVs usually tuned to soccer
matches. Come and share a bottle of Spanish wine and make a meal
out of the tapas—the albondigas (Spanish meatballs), boquerones
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