Travel Reference
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(white anchovy filets), and the aforementioned octopus are my
favorites—or you can order the excellent paella. Tapas range from $4
to $9 while no entree is more than $18. In a ballroom on the second
level, the club sponsors flamenco performances and dance lessons.
239 W. 14th St. (btwn Seventh and Eighth aves.). & 212/243-9308. www.lanacional
tapas.com. Tapas $7-$9; main courses $16-$18. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Sun-Wed
noon-11pm; Thurs-Sat noon-11pm. Subway: A, C, E, 1, 2, 3 to 14th St.
RUB BARBECUE RUB is short for Righteous Urban Barbe-
cue—a contradiction in terms if there ever was one. Co-owned by
Kansas City pit master Paul Kirk, who has won seven World Barbe-
cue Championships and is a member of the Barbecue Hall of Fame,
the arrival of RUB in New York was eagerly anticipated by those bar-
becue fanatics who are aware there is a Barbecue Hall of Fame.
Could chef Kirk replicate his cuisine in New York where pollutant-
inducing smokers are illegal? The answer is no. You will never get
that true smoked taste without creating some serious smoke, but that
doesn't mean what you get at RUB is bad. On the contrary, the
smoked turkey and barbecued chicken are the best I've had; moist
inside with a distinctive smoked flavor, and the ribs, St. Louis-style,
were delicate and crispy, yet tender and meaty. The “burnt ends,” the
fatty part of the brisket, however, were a bit tough. The restaurant is
cramped and loud and the prices urban (meaning high) but the food
at RUB will provide all the comfort you need.
208 W. 23rd St. (btwn Seventh and Eighth aves.). & 212/524-4300. www.rubbbq.
net. Sandwiches $9-$12; platters $15-$23; Taste of the Baron $46. AE, MC, V.
Tues-Thurs noon-11pm; Fri-Sat noon-midnight. Subway: 1 to 23rd St.
8 Union Square, the Flatiron District
& Gramercy Park
EXPENSIVE
A Voce MODERN ITALIAN The kind of food that is served
at A Voce, rustic Italian for the most part with exceptional nods to
innovation, seems somewhat out of place in the loud, postmodern
dining room in a sleek highrise just off Madison Park. At A Voce you
can start with something peasant-pleasing like Sardinian Sample the
hip, wild branzini tartara (Mediterranean sea bass)—something no
peasant would ever eat. And though my grandmother never made
meat ravioli—the chef 's meat ravioli is so good it certainly was not
from a can, or, continuing on that rustic theme, the “country-style
Tuscan tripe,” with barlotti beans, tomato, fried duck egg, and
grilled ciabatta bread, which (minus the duck egg) would have made
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