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top-notch fried chicken, but the best I've had is the perfectly
pan-fried, supermoist bird at the M&G. This small, no-frills
diner, open 8am-11:30pm, is a treat any time. Start your day
with a breakfast of eggs with salmon croquettes or eggs
with grits or finish it with the chicken, chitterlings, or meat-
loaf. All the sides are freshly made, and the desserts, espe-
cially the sweet-potato pie, are phenomenal. There's a great
jukebox loaded with soul to complement the food.
Miss Mamie's Spoonbread Too, 366 W. 110th St., between
Columbus and Manhattan avenues ( & 212/865-6744 ).
Entering this strawberry-curtained charmer is like stepping
into South Carolina. But you are in Harlem, or at least the
southern fringe of Harlem, and you won't be paying South
Carolina soul prices, or Harlem soul prices, either. Still,
despite the prices, Miss Mamie's is the real deal, especially
their barbecued ribs, falling off the bone in a sweet peppery
sauce, and the smothered chicken, fried and then covered
with thick pan gravy.
Sylvia's, 328 Lenox Ave., between 126th and 127th streets
( & 212/996-0660; www.sylviassoulfood.com). Sylvia is the
self-proclaimed queen of not only Harlem soul food but all
soul food. In reality, Sylvia's is a “brand,” offering canned
food, beauty products, and fragrances, and the food at her
original restaurant has suffered and it's more of a tourist
trap. If you plan to go, make it on Sunday for the gospel
brunch, which is an absolute joy.
gorgonzola cream sauce, while you might not find a more comforting
cold weather dish than the entree of filet mignon on a bed of shred-
ded short ribs accompanied by root vegetables. But surprisingly, the
winter fare here has a welcome light touch as evidenced in the deli-
cate cornbread-crusted red snapper on a citrus salad. Even the side of
potato latkes, notoriously leaden, here were actually light and airy.
Like most restaurants these days, the decibel level is thunderous.
100 E. 63rd St. (at Park Ave.). & 212/644-1900. www.parkavenuenyc.com.
Reservations recommended. Main courses: $26-$48. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon-
Fri 11:30am-3pm;
Sat-Sun 11am-3pm;
Mon-Thurs 5:30-11pm;
Fri-Sat
5:30-11:30pm; Sun 5:30-10pm. Subway: F at Lexington Ave-63rd St.
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