Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Dining Uptown: The Soul of Harlem
There is much soul in Manhattan, but Harlem seems to pos-
sess the mother lode when it comes to food. Here is one
man's primer to Harlem's soul food (see map on p. 112):
Amy Ruth's,
113 W. 116th St., between Lenox and Seventh
avenues (
&
212/280-8779
). Amy Ruth's has become a mecca
for Harlem celebs, with the gimmick of naming platters
after them, like the Rev. Al Sharpton (chicken and waffles)
and the Rev. Calvin O. Butts III (chicken wings and waffles).
Most of the celebrities gained their fame in Harlem, as did
the chicken and waffles, or fried whiting and waffles, or
steak and waffles. You can't go wrong with anything here
as long as waffles are included.
Charles' Southern Style Kitchen
, 2837 Eighth Ave.,
between 151st and 152nd streets (
&
877/813-2920
or
212/926-4313). Nothing fancy about this place, just a
brightly lit, 25-seater on a not-very-attractive block in upper
Harlem. But you don't come here for fancy, you come for
soul food at its simplest and freshest. And come hungry. The
$13 all-you-can-eat buffet features crunchy, moist, pan-fried
chicken; ribs in a tangy sauce, with meat falling off the
bone; stewed oxtails in a thick brown onion gravy; macaroni
and cheese; collard greens with bits of smoked turkey;
black-eyed peas; and corn bread, warm and not overly
sweet. Hours can be erratic, so call before you head there.
M&G Diner,
383 W. 125th St., at St. Nicholas Avenue
(
&
212/864-7326
). All the soul-food joints I've listed serve
Park Avenue Winter
AMERICAN/MEDITERRANEAN
Not only might the name of this restaurant be different when you
visit, but the look (created by award-winning design firm AvroKO)
and the menu will be changed as well. The gimmick here is that the
restaurant transforms itself each season. And though a restaurant with
a gimmick is sometimes frowned upon, in this case, it's more than a
gimmick: Park Avenue Winter (the season I happened to visit it) is
first rate. For the winter look, the large, high-ceilinged dining room
was a snowy, glacial white and the menu reflected the season. Starters
included the hearty porcini ravioli with Swiss chard in a flavorful
