Where to Dine - New York City 2009 - page 109

Noche Mexicana MEXICAN This tiny restaurant serves
some of the best tamales in New York. Wrapped in cornhusks, as a
good tamale should be, they come in two varieties: in a red mole
sauce with shredded chicken or in a green tomatillo sauce with shred-
ded pork. There are three tamales in each order, which costs only $6,
making it a cheap and almost perfect lunch. The burritos are authen-
tic and meals unto themselves. The tinga burrito, shredded chicken in
a tomato-and-onion chipotle sauce, is my favorite. Each is stuffed
with rice, beans, and guacamole. Don't get fancy here; stick with the
tamales, burritos, and soft tacos, the best being the taco al pastor, a
taco stuffed with pork marinated with pineapple and onions.
852 Amsterdam Ave. (btwn 101st and 102nd sts.). & 212/662-6900 or 212/662-
7400. Burritos $6.50-$8.50; tacos $2; tamales $6; Mexican dishes $9.50-$11. AE,
DISC, MC, V. Sun-Thurs 10am-11pm; Fri-Sat 10am-midnight. Subway: 1 to 103rd St.

Finds

12 Upper East Side
To locate the restaurants in this section, see the map on p. 102.
EXPENSIVE
Paola's ITALIAN There is no shortage of Italian restaurants on
the Upper East Side, but many are mediocre. There is nothing
mediocre about Paola's, and having survived and thrived in the
neighborhood for over 10 years is testament to the restaurant's qual-
ity and charms. The charm begins with Paola herself, almost always
present and always the gracious hostess. The two dining rooms are
inviting; the larger centered on a wood-burning oven used to cook
many of the restaurant's meat dishes, the other the smaller, but cozy,
wine room. Most appealing of all is the menu. Hope that Paola has
found baby artichokes the day you visit, because you will want to
begin with the carciofi alla Giudea, artichokes prepared in the style
of the Roman Jews—cooked twice and addictively crispy. The pastas
are usually homemade; the pappardelle with a duck-meat ragout is a
standout, while the hand-rolled trofie served with pesto is a specialty.
The stinco d'agnello, slow-roasted lamb shank with sage and parme-
san polenta, is a hearty main course, roasted in the wood-burning
oven, as are the naturally raised, corn-fed poussins, served with
potato gratin and sautéed greens. Fig ice cream topped with port-
soaked figs is the decadent way to finish your meal.
245 E. 84th St. (btwn Second & Third aves.). & 212/794-1890. www.paolas
restaurant.com. Reservations recommended. Pasta $14-$17; main courses
$22-$30. AE, MC, V. Sun-Fri 1-4pm; Sun-Wed 5-10pm; Thurs-Sat 5-11pm. Sub-
way: 4, 5, 6 to 86th St.