San Diego & Around - Coastal California - page 1068

WORTH A TRIP
TRAVELING TO TIJUANA
Just beyond the most crossed border in the world, Tijuana, Mexico (population around 2
million), had fallen on hard times in the last decade, but locals have been reclaiming their
city.
Avenida Revolución ('La Revo') is the main tourist drag, its charm marred by cheap
clothing and souvenir stores, strip joints and pharmacies selling bargain-priced meds. It's
much more appealing around Avenida Constitución: Catedral de Nuestra Señora de
Guadalupe (Cathedral of our Lady of Guadalupe; cnr Av Niños Héroes & Calle 2a) is Tijuana's old-
est church, the atmospheric market hall Mercado El Popo ( GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Calle 2a & Av
Constitución) sells needs from tamarind pods to religious iconography, and the arcade
Pasaje Rodríguez (btwn Avenida Revolución & Avenida Constitución, Calles 3 & 4) is filled with
youthful art galleries, bars and trendsetters.
A short ride away, Museo de las Californias (Museum of the Californias; GOOGLE MAP ;
from US 011-52-664-687-9600; www.cecut.gob.mx ; cnr Paseo de los Héroes & Av Independencia;
adult/child under 12yr M$20/free; 10am-6pm Tue-Sun; ) offers an excellent history of the
border region from prehistory to the present; there's signage in English. Friday nights,
check out lucha libre ( from US 011-52-664-250-9015; Blvd Díaz Ordaz 12421, Auditorio Municip-
al Fausto Gutierrez Moreno; admission US$8-35), Mexican wrestling by oversized men in gaudy
masks.
The Caesar salad was invented at Hotel Caesar ( GOOGLE MAP ; from US
011-52-664-685-1606; Av Revolución 827; Caesar salad $6; 9am-midnight), prepared tableside
in the elegant dining room. Contemporary superstar chef Javier Plascencia runs the fun
storefront Erizo ( from US 011-52-686-3895; 3808 Avenida Sonora; tacos M$18-45, ceviches
$62-180, ramen $90-120) for innovative takes on tacos, ceviche and even ramen, worth the
10-minute taxi ride from La Revo.
Turista Libre ( www.turistalibre.com ) runs public and private tours in English.
A passport is required for the border crossing. The San Diego Trolley
( www.sdmts.com ) runs to the border at San Ysidro. By car, take I-5 south and park on the
US side (around $8 for up to 24 hours). Cross the border on foot, and follow signs reading
'Centro Downtown,' a 20-minute walk. If traveling by taxi within Mexico, be sure the car
has a meter. Driving into Mexico is not recommended.