9 ★★★ San Francisco
Museum of Modern Art
(SFMOMA). In 1995, SFMOMA
moved in to its $62-million home,
designed by Swiss architect Mario
Botta. The permanent collection
includes over 15,000 works by the
likes of Henri Matisse, Jackson Pol-
lock, and Georgia O'Keeffe. The first
major museum to recognize photog-
raphy as art form, SFMOMA also has
numerous excellent examples by
Ansel Adams, Man Ray, and others.
Not enough of the permanent col-
lection is on display at any one time,
but temporary exhibits are usually
excellent. @ 1 1 ⁄ 2 hr. 151 3rd St.
(between Mission & Howard sts.).
y 415/357-4000. www.sfmoma.
org. Admission $10, $7 seniors 62+,
$6 students with ID, free for kids
under 13. Half price Thurs 6-9pm.
Free to all 1st Tues of the month.
Thurs 11am-9pm; Fri-Tues
11am-6pm. Closed Wed & major holi-
days. Opens at 10am in summer. Bus:
15, 30, 45. BART/Muni: Montgomery
St. Best time: weekdays.
SFMOMA's skylight is just one of the
museum's architectural highlights.
Admission $7, $4.50 seniors
& kids 12-17 & students, $2 kids
4-11, free for kids under 3, free for
all the 1st Wed of the month. Daily
@ ★★ Civic Center. Less than a
decade after the 1906 earthquake
destroyed City Hall, San Francisco
completed an ambitious new
administrative and cultural center in
grandiose, Beaux Arts style. It con-
tains City Hall, with its 308-foot-
(92m-) tall dome, the homes of the
San Francisco Symphony, Opera, and
Ballet, the main public library, the
Asian Art Museum, and other
notable buildings. For more details
on the Civic Center, refer to the
neighborhood tour on page 48.
@ 1 hr. Most Civic Center buildings
are bordered by Hayes, Franklin &
Hyde sts. & Golden Gate Ave. Best
time: weekdays during daylight
0 Caffe Museo. SFMOMA's
on-site cafe sells excellent soups,
sandwiches, and salads (151 3rd St.;
y 415/357-4500; $).
! ★ = California Academy
of Sciences. The country's fourth-
largest natural-history museum will
be in SoMa until 2008, while a new
facility is built in Golden Gate Park.
The temporary location is not as
expansive as its old home, but does
include terrific temporary exhibits,
fascinating animal life in the Stein-
hart Aquarium, and twice-daily, nar-
rated penguin feedings. @ 1-2 hr.;
weekday afternoons are best, as
mornings are full with school tours.
875 Howard St. (at 5th St.). y 415/
# Zuni Café. Treat yourselves to
dinner at an SF institution, one of the
first purveyors of innovative Califor-
nia cuisine (1658 Market St. y 415/
552-2522; $$$; see also p 116). For a
delicious (and cheaper) alternative,
head to $ Vicolo Pizzeria, an
alley-side gem serving memorable
cornmeal crust pizzas (150 Ivy
Alley y 415/863-2382; $; see also