THE WORLD CAPITAL OF FOOD - CultureShock! A Survival Guide to Customs and Etiquette - page 203

in red wine) and blanquette de veau (creamy veal stew).
Meals run from the modern and trendy, traditional and
hearty, to old favourites imaginatively executed with a
modern twist. Decent house wines are often sold by the
carafe, but more impressive wines can also be found.
Try the bistros opened by younger chefs who have
trained under the master chefs. Offering imaginative
interpretations and reasonable prices, these establishments
are among the most popular. Also, some of the noted chefs
themselves have opened their own bistros, allowing people
to savour their high-quality preparations at affordable
prices. These are generally mentioned in guidebooks,
featuring the name of the chef. Be sure to book in advance.
My favourites:

1 er : L'Escargot Montorgueil; 38 rue Montorgueil;
tel: [phone]. In the market street, this old, staid-
looking establishment on two floors has what I think are
the best snails in Paris, with a sampler plate. Good dishes
of all sorts. Closed on Sundays.

1 er : Les Cartes Postales; 7 rue Gomboust; tel: [phone].
93. Imaginative 'new French' cuisine, where it's also
possible to sample multiple smaller plates with a definite
Asian touch. Intimate ambience. Closed on Sundays.
6 e : Le Voltaire; 27 quai Voltaire; tel: [phone].
Refined and elegant, intimate and welcoming, with
toothsome dishes that are always perfectly prepared and
presented. Make sure to reserve well in advance. Closed
on Sundays.
6 e : Le Mâchon d'Henri; 8 rue Guisarde; tel: [phone].
Tiny, smoky, crowded with locals and a lot of fun, offering
good, hearty Lyon-inspired food. Chalkboard with the
day's menu ensures the freshest of food. Friendly service
and good prices.
15 e : Chamade Café; 42bis avenue de Suffren;
tel: [phone]. I like everything about this charming,
upmarket neighbourhood place: the friendly welcome,
the interesting dishes, especially the magret de canard
(duck fillet) and the prices. In autumn, try the game
dishes—wild boar, pigeon and duck.