The Western Pacific - Pacific Crossing Notes: A Sailor's Guide to the Coconut Milk Run - page 403

Farther Afield
The following anchorages are either a long day's sail or a two-day hop from Noumea and
therefore attract fewer weekend warriors. Ilot Mato and Kouare are idyllic drops of green
in the blue lagoon, while Prony offers a taste of an entirely different landscape in ochre and
red. As for Ile des Pins - well, that gem is in a class of its own.
Ilot Mato is an excellent stopover point for those heading to Ile des Pins and an anomaly as
one of the few high islands in the lagoon (map, #7). Its forty meter peak offers a lovely
panorama of the southern end of the lagoon with its incredible aquamarine color palate.
The reefs ringing the anchorage provide nice, if not spectacular, snorkeling, with glimpses
of reef sharks along the way. There's space for dozens of boats, though we had this beauty
all to ourselves in the middle of the week.
The best snorkeling we found in the lagoon was at Ilot Kouare (map, #8). Water clarity var-
ies with the tide, but hit it just right and the craggy, colorful reef will amaze you with its
variety, length, and multi-story structures. There are three different anchorages on all sides
of the island, making it a safe bet in all but the hardest blow.
Baie de Prony is a wide bay from which several fingers branch out, a mini cruising ground
in its own (map, #9). A winding trail leads from Bonne Anse, the southeasternmost arm of
the bay, to the lighthouse and whale observation post on the top of the hill, with views all
the way to Ile des Pins. At the head of the bay is Baie du Carenage, a hurricane hole of a
creek with a natural hot spring. The landscape is harsh but beautiful in its own way, with
red earth and the low scrub typical of the mainland.
Ile des Pins deserves a chapter in itself (map, #10). For us, this eight-by eight-mile island
was one of the highlights of the entire Pacific for its laidback character and variety. Baie de
Kuto is the perfect place for an extended layover; we spent a happy ten days there in a
picture-perfect bay ringed by the namesake pines. There's a boulangerie and small shop
where you can stock up on fresh supplies. You can treat yourself to a meal at one of the ho-
tels or just hide away from it all. And yes, there's even iNet Internet coverage out in the
bay.
Back to back with Kuto is Baie de Kanumera with its gorgeous shoreline and pleasant
snorkeling. A short walk brings you to the ruins of the jail that housed France's political
exiles in the 1870s. For an active day out, hike the 262-meter Pic N'ga or rent a bike from