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one of the low-key resorts to visit the old town of Vao and pretty Baie de Saint Joseph,
home port to many traditional pirogues (sailing canoes). The hardy can even circle the en-
tire island with a stop at Baie d'Oro with its
piscine naturelle
(natural pool).
The catch? Kuto is a favorite of cruise ships, which visit as often as three times weekly
and disgorge thousands of sunburned passengers at a time. However, these visitors herd at
one end of the beach, leaving wide swaths of peace and quiet for those willing to walk a
few minutes. The advantage of cruise ship day is that local families set up barbecue stalls
along the beach, your opportunity for a break from standard galley fare.
Weather protection is another issue. While Baie de Kuto is a deep scoop in the island's
shape, heavy westerlies will occasionally heave into the bay. That's the time to circle
around to Kanumera. While Kuto may have a dozen or more yachts at a time (rest as-
sured, the bay can hold many times that), other parts of the island see fewer boats, such as
beautiful Baie de Ouameo. A number of off-lying islets offer good day or overnight an-
chorages, as well.
All the highlights described here cluster around the southwest end of New Caledonia.
Sailors with more time can explore more of the lagoon, heading northwest along the lee-
ward shore of the mainland, or better yet, overnight out to the Loyalty Islands to the east.
Local sailors give Ouvea (the northernmost of the three Loyalties) top marks, thanks to its
beautiful lagoon.
Still, most cruisers “confine” themselves to the southwest corner of the lagoon, an experi-
ence as liberating as any in the South Pacific. Again and again, we were amazed at how
quickly we could get away from it all just in the compact area described. In fact, we post-
poned our departure for Australia again and again, drinking our fill of the lagoon's won-
ders for a full two months before bidding it a fond
au revoir
- until we meet again.
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