Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
into the mountains of Swedish Lapland, should you wish to
head inland from further up the Bothnian coast.
By ferry
Along the High Coast, island-hopping north of
Härnösand via Högbonden, Ulvön and Trysunda (see p.260)
is a wonderful way to make your way north and to take in
one of northern Sweden's most beautiful regions at the
same time. Ferry tickets here are good value; see p.262 for
details. Once again, though, you'll need to carefully check
departure times to make sure you're not left stranded
either on the islands or the mainland; the general pattern
of services is given in the text.
Gävle and around
It's only ninety minutes north by train from Stockholm to
GÄVLE
(pronounced
“yerv-luh”, and confusingly similar to a much-used Swedish swear word), capital of the
province of Gästrikland. Gävle is also the southernmost city of
Norrland
, the region
- comprising almost two-thirds of Sweden - which represents wilderness territory in
the minds of most Swedes. To all intents and purposes, Norrland, Sweden's main
reservoir of natural resources with vast forests and large ore deposits, means everything
north of Uppsala; crossing into here from Svealand (which together with Götland
makes up the southern third of the country) is - as far as the Swedish psyche is
concerned - like leaving civilization behind.
Although Gävle is one of the bigger towns in Norrland, you can comfortably see
everything in a day. Your first point of call should be
Gamla Gefle,
, the old town district,
where you'll also find the town's two museums,
Joe Hill-Gården
and
Länsmuséet
Gävleborg
. Nearby, the
Heliga Trefaldighets kyrka
is a riot of seventeenth-century
woodcarving and makes a pleasant stop en route to Gävle's city park,
Boulognerskogen
,
a vast expanse of forested parkland ideal for a picnic or a leisurely stroll.
7
Brief history
Gävle's town charter was granted as long ago as 1446, a fact that's at variance with the
modernity of the centre's large squares, broad avenues and proud monumental
buildings. The city was almost completely rebuilt after a devastating fire in 1869 and its
docks and warehouses reflect the heady success of its late nineteenth-century industry,
when Gävle was one of Sweden's main ports for the export of locally produced iron ore
and timber. Today, the city is more famous as the home of
Gevalia coffee
(“Gevalia”
being the old Latinized name for the town), which you'll no doubt taste during your
time in Sweden and certainly smell in the air in Gävle.
Gamla Gefle,
It's only a ten-minute walk from the train station, across the Gavleån River, to the
district of
Gamla Gefle,
, which escaped much of the fire damage and today passes itself
of as the authentic old town. Unfortunately, though it's the most interesting part of
the city, it doesn't amount to much. The few remaining narrow cobbled streets
- notably Övre Bergsgatan, Bergsgränd and Nedre Bergsgränd - boast pastel-coloured
wooden cottages, window boxes overflowing with flowers in summer and old black
lanterns. It's all very attractive and quaint and the jumbled lanes now house the odd
craft shop and a café or two.
Joe Hill-Gården
Nedre Bergsgatan 28 • June-Aug daily 10am-3pm; other times by arrangement • Free •
T
026 65 26 41,
W
joehill.se
For a glimpse of social conditions a century ago, visit the
Joe Hill-Gården
, the
birthplace of one Johan Emanuel Hägglund in 1879. He emigrated to the United
States in 1902, changed his name to Joe Hill and became a working-class hero - his
songs and speeches became rallying cries to comrades in the International Workers of
the World, a Utah-based syndicalist organization, which runs the museum today. Its
