Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Our first impression of Tartus was that it favoured the “brutalist” Soviet style of architec-
ture in the design of its apartment blocks that (we hoped) had seen better days. The weath-
er had now seriously clouded over. The sea was very dark and the waves crashed noisily
against the shore. It began to rain and puddles appeared in the roads. The puddles reflected
the darkness in the skies. There was no sign of an old town or anything pretty or remotely
attractive.
The Soviet impression of the town and its gloomy outlook were confirmed and exacerbated
when we arrived to check into our hotel. I know we had not asked for luxury, but a little
bit of historic character or at least a partially redeeming nice location would have helped.
Instead, we were booked into an obscure sample of one of the aforementioned blocks, and
worse still, up a dingy backstreet. As we waited to check in, some Russian tourists followed
by some Armenians entered the hotel lobby. Both lots were distinctly rough in appearance,
behaviour and conversation and we kept our distance.
In spite of initial appearances, the rooms were passable and had at least a slither of a sea
view. It was a pity that the dark clouds, the heavy tide and the, by now, mercilessly pelting
rain, all conspired to make that view less than inviting.
In spite of this, and given our tight schedule and limited time in Tartus, we decided to make
an effort to go for a walk along the beach. That didn't take too long, as a further gust of
unseasonal rain drove us hurriedly back to our hotel. We ran all the way to the hotel, past
bricked-up shop fronts, past the beach, which was covered in stones and rubbish and the
large ships that were being tossed around by the angry waves. We (for we, read I) had ori-
ginally planned to visit the tourist island of Arwad, which was situated offshore, but we
quickly crossed that off our list and instead planned a fast exit for the next day from Tartus.
We had seen the Mediterranean coast of Syria; but at what cost. I was soon to find out. That
night, in perfect harmony with my surroundings, I began to feel ill.
Original Route
Distances
Palmyra to Krac des Chevaliers
140 k
Krac des Chevaliers to Tartous
50 k
Tartous to Qalaat Al Salah Ad Din
100 k
Qalaat Al Salah Ad Din to Tartous
100 k
Total
390 k
Final Route
Distances
