Central Iran - Iran - page 401

Entry to the complex is via the monumental Grand Stairway at the northwest corner of
the site. The stairs were carved from massive blocks of stone, but each step was shallow
so that Persians in long elegant robes could walk gracefully up into the palace.
Whenever important foreign delegations arrived, their presence was heralded by trum-
peters at the top of the staircase; fragments of one of these bronze trumpets are on display
in the museum. Acolytes then led the dignitaries through Xerxes' Gateway (also known
as the Gate of All Nations), which is still a wonderfully impressive monument.
Built during the time of Xerxes I, the gateway is guarded by bull-like figures that have
a strong Assyrian character. Above these, look for a cuneiform inscription in Old Persian,
Neo-Babylonian and Elamite languages. It declares, among other things, that 'King Xer-
xes says: by the favour of Ahuramazda this Gate of All Nations I built. Much else that is
beautiful was built in this Parsa, which I built and my father built.' Centuries of graffitists
have also left their mark, including explorer Henry Morton Stanley.

THE LAST SHAH'S TENT CITY

Outside the entrance to Persepolis, through the pine trees behind the toilets, are the remains of a luxurious tent city
built by Shah Mohammad Reza Pahlavi in 1971 to celebrate the 2500th anniversary of the Persian monarchy. The
tents played host to a lavish and incredibly expensive party, attended by dignitaries including 60 monarchs or heads
of state, but few Iranians. Food was flown in from Maxims in Paris, and many of the VIPs were put up in luxury
tented apartments, complete with marble bathrooms. They were arranged on five streets, each representing a geo-
graphical area (Europe, Oceania, Asia, Africa and America), which came together to form a five-pointed star.

The celebration had two main objectives: to promote Iran to the rest of the world, and nurture Iranian nationalistic
pride and love of their monarch. The first was a huge success, but the second was a public relations disaster. Oppon-
ents quickly pointed to the unnecessary extravagance, and some believe the party was a turning point from which
the shah never recovered. It has stood rusting, with canvas slowly decaying, ever since.

Apadana Palace & Staircase
Important Persian and Median notables were probably ushered to the Apadana Palace to
the south. Constructed on a terrace of stone by Xerxes I, the palace was reached via anoth-
er staircase. Although it can be difficult to picture the grandeur of the palace from what
remains, the bas-reliefs along the northern wall evocatively depict the scenes of splendour
that must have accompanied the arrival of delegations to meet with the king.
Most impressive of all, however, and among the most impressive historical sights in all
of Iran, are the bas-reliefs of the Apadana Staircase on the eastern wall, which can also

PALACE