Western Iran - Iran - page 208

Rashtتشر
0131 / POP 618,000 / ELEV 4M
Rapidly expanding Rasht is the capital of Gilan province and by far the largest city of the
Shomal (Caspian littoral) region. Gilan has had extended periods of independence and the
lispy local Gilaki dialect remains noticeably distinct from Farsi, its reversed adjective-
noun order causing much amusement for other Iranians.
Although 15km inland, Rasht is a popular weekend and holiday destination for
Tehranis, for whom the greatest attraction is its 'refreshing' climate (ie lots of rain). It's
mildly amusing to watch local tourists driving with arms outstretched to feel the drops.
But year-round downpours and steaming summer humidity don't otherwise appeal to most
foreign tourists.
The city has precious little in the way of historical buildings, but is a useful transport
hub from which to visit the lush mountain forests, rice paddies and thatched-house vil-
lages of the emerald-green Gilan hinterland, most famously at Masuleh. It's also a great
place to taste the garlic-stoked, vegetable-rich Gilan cuisine ( Click here ) .
CUT THE CAVIAR - GILAN CUISINE
The Caspian Sea produces 95% of the world's caviar. But don't count on seeing any. Iran's caviar is virtually all for
export. In fact, Gilan's cuisine largely ignores the sea and focuses on the local wealth of fruit, nuts, olives and veget-
ables. Typical dishes are packed with garlic and turmeric, rather shocking for the sensitive taste buds of central Ira-
nian tourists. Sirabi is essentially fried garlic leaves with egg, shami Rashti are deep-fried lentil-and-meat patties,
baghilah qotoq are dill-and-garlic-flavoured broad beans, while anarbij (meatballs in walnut and pomegranate
sauce) is a variant of fesenjun (chicken with walnuts). Easier to find than any of the above is mirza ghasemi, a ve-
getarian marvel of mashed aubergine, squash, garlic and egg. Although often listed as a starter it makes a delicious
meal of its own when served with rice.
History
Rasht (previously Resht) developed in the 14th century, but the population was massacred
in 1668 by the forces of Cossack brigand Stepan 'Stenka' Razin who also sank Persia's
entire Caspian navy. The Russians, a constant factor in the region thereafter, were back in
1723 clearing spaces in the then-impenetrable forest to allow Resht's growth. In 1899 a
Russian company cut the road to Qazvin, diminishing Gilan's isolation from the rest of
Iran. By WWI the town boasted 60,000 inhabitants and four international consulates.