Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
CROSSING THE AZERBAIJAN BORDER AT
ASTARA
A narrow river divides Astara (Iran) from Astara (Azerbaijan). By Caucasus standards the pedestrian border here is
quick and straightforward with neither fees nor bribes to pay. Things are contrastingly slow for vehicles. Interna-
tional Baku-Tehran buses wait between three and seven hours while the whole bus is checked. Visas are not avail-
able on arrival. The pedestrian crossing point (Mosaferi Gümrük; 7.30am-noon & 1.30-4.30pm) is easy to miss
up a small lane north of Hakim Nezami St. On the Azerbaijan side, the unmarked metal border gate is 500m along
Heydar Əliyev küçasi from the excellent-value Hotel Şindan.
Freelance moneychangers at the Iran-side border-gate offer passable rates. Get rid of rials here if heading north.
Leave bigger exchanges till Ardabil or Rasht if heading south. Near Hotel Şindan on the Azerbaijan side, Kapital
Bank has an ATM cash machine.
Confusingly many Azeris count in 'shirvans' rather than New Azeri manats (AZN, US$1=AZN0.80). One shir-
van means AZN2.
Decrepit night buses to Baku (AZN5) and daytime minivans to Lənkəran (AZN2) start 100m north of Hotel
Şindan.
An overnight sleeper train to Baku (AZN2.70, 11 hours) leaves Astara around 7pm, but the station is 3km from
the border and tickets often sell out.
Astara to Rasht
Between Astara and Rezvanshahr several relatively unspoilt sections of Caspian hinter-
land offer attractive views of rice paddies (notably at Lavandevil , Khotbeh Sara and
Sust ). There's some lovely woodland behind Asalem and the most accessible of the re-
gion's castle ruins is the cute little Dezhe Sasal Fortress (Qal'eh Lisar; Salsal St) , which
crowns a petite wooded knoll at the southern end of Lisar town, five minutes' walk off
the main highway. Its gate arch is intact and offers sea views, although the rest of the site
is fenced off.
Little Hashtpar is often referred to as 'Talesh', somewhat confusing as Talesh is also
the name of the region and its people. Behind Hashtpar's charioteer statue in the central
square is an attractive Qajar-era octagonal pavilion, but since it's used by revolutionary
guards, photography is unwise.
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