Argentina - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 92

WHAT TO SEE AND DO
If you have time to kill in Jujuy, head
to the lively Plaza General Belgrano ,
east of the city centre. This large, green
open space is generally crowded with
young locals, checking out the craftsmen
and market sellers who set up stalls here.
On the west side of the plaza, the late
eighteenth-century Catedral (daily
8am-1pm & 5-8pm; free) makes up
for a plain facade with a wonderfully
decorative interior, above all a spectacular
pulpit decorated by local artists over
two centuries ago. This has a rival in
the intricate pulpit of the nearby Iglesia
San Francisco , whose tiny human figures,
columns and scenes are thought to have
been carved in Bolivia.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
By plane Jujuy's airport (Gobernador Horacio Guzmán
International Airport; T 0388 491 1102) is around 30km
southeast of the city. A taxi will cost around AR$150.
By bus Most visitors to Jujuy arrive by bus at the ugly bus
terminal ( T 0388 422 6299) on Iguazú, at Av Dorrego, just
south of the centre across the Río Chico, which serves all
local, regional and national destinations, and also offers
services to Chile and Bolivia.
Destinations Buenos Aires (3 daily; 22hr); Cordoba (3 daily;
14-15hr); Salta (2 daily; 2hr); Tucumán (regular; 5-6hr).

1 WINERY VISITS

There are some world-class wineries
around Cafayate and most offer tours
in English and Spanish with a tasting
afterwards. Taking a tour is a great way
to see which wines you prefer, and to
appreciate the whole process. Ask at the
information centre on the small plaza in
Cafayate for a winery map of the area.
Two of the most popular are Bodega
Etchart on RN40 (daily 9am-5pm;
T 03868 421 529, W bodegasetchart.com)
and Bodega La Rosa on RN68 (Mon-Fri
8am-12.30pm & 1.30-7pm; T 03868 421
201). Both are within walking or cycling
distance, and offer free tours.

for enjoying the house picadas and very reasonable
torrontés , made from vines that grow just behind. The
building also houses a decent hostel (dorms $55). Daily
noon-late.
Baco Güemes Norte, at Rivadavia. Simple decor and
friendly staff make this corner restaurant popular, as do
its pizzas, trout and local wines. Daily lunch & dinner.
Carreta de Don Olegario Güemes Sur 20, at Quintana
de Niño on the east side of the plaza. Popular for its
reasonably priced local dishes, this well-located restaurant
features live traditional music as well as hearty goat and
veal stews, veggie-friendly tortillas and pasta dishes, and
delicious cheeses. There's a good selection of wines from
local bodegas too. Daily noon-3pm & 7-11pm.
Heladería Santa Barbara Av Güemes, half a block
north of the plaza. Gourmet ice creams in exotic flavours;
try the famous wine sorbets. Daily noon-8pm.

INFORMATION AND TOURS
Tourist information Dirección Provincial de Turismo,
on Plaza General Belgrano (Mon-Fri 7am-10pm, Sat & Sun
9am-9pm; T 0388 422 1325, W turismo.jujuy.gov.ar).
Tour operators Noroeste, at San Martín 155 ( T 0388
423 7565, W noroestevirtual.com.ar), is a youth travel
agency attached to Club Hostel .

SAN SALVADOR DE JUJUY
Generally playing second fiddle to its
prettier cousin Salta, SAN SALVADOR
DE JUJUY (known as Jujuy) lies 90km
to the north. Although it is the highest
provincial capital in the country, at
1260m above sea level, Jujuy is set in
a lush pocket of humidity and greenery.
It's a busy place, with a frantic, market
feel, where crumbling colonial buildings
are juxtaposed with neon signs. Most
travellers pass through for just one
night on their way to the surrounding
attractions and small towns of Tilcara and
Humahuaca . The real lure is out of town
to the north, in the spectacular colours of
the Quebrada de Humahuaca .

Ì TREAT YOURSELF
Just 19km west of Jujuy are the thermal
hot springs of the Termas de Reyes and
the Hotel Termas de Reyes ( T 0388 392
2522, W termasdereyes.com; AR$330 for
a day visit, AR$760 for a room overnight).
Sinking into a hot mineral spa bath, or
relaxing with a mineral mud mask, is just
the way to shake off a long bus ride. There
are fourteen private thermal baths for
three people, with stunning panoramic
views, as well as two saunas. The #14
public bus runs to Termas from the main
bus terminal (4 daily; 20min).