Argentina - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget

Travel Reference

In-Depth Information

QUEBRADA DE HUMAHUACA

The scintillating, multicoloured

QUEBRADA DE HUMAHUACA gorge

stretches 125km north of Jujuy, past

the small village of Purmamarca and the

town of Tilcara , with its pre-Columbian

archeological site, all the way to the busy

village of Humahuaca . From there you

can carry on to reach the border crossing

with Bolivia at La Quiaca , nearly 2000m

higher and 150km further on. The region

is popular with Argentine holidaymakers,

who come to stay in the many swish

spas and resorts, to hike and take in the

extraordinary mountain scenery.

ACCOMMODATION

Ì Hostal Casa de Barro Otero 294 T 0388 422 9578,

W casadebarro.com.ar. Wonderful and welcoming, with

clean spacious dorms and private rooms, an excellent

on-site restaurant and a pleasant common area. Dorms

AR$35

Club Hostel San Martín 155 T 0388 423 7565, W club

hosteljujuy.com.ar. Busy, lively hostel with a small pool,

within walkin g distan ce of th e bus te rminal and the

centre. Dorms AR$100 , doubles AR$245

Dublin Hostel y Bar Independencia 946 T 0388 422

9608, W dublinhostel.com.ar. Long-running Jujuy hostel,

recently moved to larger premises. There's a handful of

high-ceilinged dorms as well as a couple of doubles,

while a bar (which closes at midnight) with a g ood beer

selection is tacked on the side. Dorms AR$60 , doubles

AR$200

Munay Tierra de Colores Alvear 1230 T 0388 422

8435, W munayhotel.com.ar. Just north of the centre, this

friendly, small host el has c lean, rather dark rooms with

private bathrooms. AR$310

1

Purmamarca

As you head north, the first substantial

settlement you reach along the RN9

is PURMAMARCA at Km61. This small

town sits at the foot of the stunning

Cerro de los Siete Colores (Hill of Seven

Colours) and is an ideal base for

horseriding and hiking excursions.

Purmamarca is popular with Argentine

tourists, and home to scores of luxury

hotels as well as more budget-friendly

options. Despite this tourist influx it

retains plenty of rustic Andean charm,

thanks to its traditional adobe buildings

and colourfully dressed locals. The village

has a fantastic seventeenth-century

church, the Iglesia Santa Rosa de Lima ,

at its heart - faithfully maintained and

still in use today.

EATING AND DRINKING

The open-air market, next to the bus station, is a

great place to fill up on empanadas , grilled meat

sandwiches, coffee, hot chocolate and the like for just

a few pesos.

Cacao Sarmiento 330 T 0388 423 2037. Sophisticated

formal dining, good tapas and an extensive list of local

wines. Around $100 for two courses. Mon-Sat noon-

3.30pm & 8pm-2am.

La Candelaria Alvear 1346. West of the city, this parrilla

is a local institution, and a must for any meat-lover. Tues-

Sat noon-3pm & 8.30pm-1am, Sun noon-3pm.

Ì Macedonio Lamadrid, at Güemes T 0388 424 1606.

Wonderful cultural centre and café bar in an 1860s adobe

house, with a palm-fringed patio where folk and jazz

bands play (Wed-Sat). Inexpensive meals - hearty sand-

wiches, salads and pasta - are served. Mon 6pm-2am,

Tues-Sat 10am-2am, Sun 10am-6pm.

Madre Tierra Belgrano 619. Fresh salads, juices and

vegetarian food, with a set menu for AR$60. Lunch only

Mon-Sat.

Zorba Belgrano 802. Large, two-storey restaurant serving

Greek food, as well as local favourites. Mon-Sat 8am-

2am, Sun 6pm-1am.

Tilcara

The busy tourist town of TILCARA is

a favourite with holidaymakers for its

fantastic restaurants, attractive hotels

and a pre-Incan pukará or fortress

(daily 10am-6pm; AR$30, free Mon).

Discovered in 1903 and heavily

reconstructed in the 1950s, the site enjoys

a wonderful, commanding location,

covered in giant cacti. To get here, follow

the signposted trail from the centre of

town over the bridge across the Río

Huasamayo. Keep your entrance ticket

for admission to the Museo Arqueológico

(same hours), on the south side of the

square in a beautiful colonial house. The

well-presented collection includes finds