Uruguay - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 836

GETTING AROUND
Most of the points of interest in the city are within walking
distance of Plaza Independencia, while Pocitos and Punta
Carretas are easily reached by bus. Note that the roads
crossing Av 18 de Julio north-south change names either
side of the main road.
By bus There are no route maps available, but there is a
bus journey planner at W montevideo.gub.uy/aplicacion
/como-ir and a list of inner-city route numbers with desti-
nations at W cutcsa.com.uy/informacion/facrecorridos.php
. You can catch buses to most parts of the city from outside
the Teatro Solís. Buses heading for the centre are marked
“Aduana” or “Ciudad Vieja”. Ask for a “centrico” ticket (UR$11)
if you're only going within the centro, or a “común” (UR$19)
otherwise. Buses run regularly from 6am until midnight,
when the service starts to thin out dramatically.
By bike Renting a bike is a popular way to see the city,
and the lovely Ramblas hugging the estuary beaches
makes it easy. Most hostels rent bikes cheaply.
By taxi Journeys within the confines of the city rarely
amount to more than UR$200 in hailed street taxis or
remises (minicabs). Note that the meter does not give the
fare but rather the distance, which corresponds to a pre-
fixed rate (taxis should always have the rates displayed
for the passenger).

Red San José 1406 T 29088514, W redhostel.com. Up a
grand staircase in a building with nice architectural flourishes,
this hostel is a 20min walk to the old city, but still very central,
just off Av 18 de Julio. With various communal areas, includ-
ing a roof terrace and li living roof m with fireplace, it is
a nice place to relax. Dorms UR$400 , doubles UR$1450
Río de la Plata Av18 de Julio 937 T 29085174. A six
storey old-fashioned basic hotel, complete with caged
elevator, that's stacked with character. The antique furni-
ture, as well as the rock-bottom prices, makes up for the
occasional sagging mattres s. The b est rooms face the
street. No breakfast. Doubles UR$600
Ì Splendido Bartolomé Mitre 1314 T 29156171,
W splendidohotel.com.uy. This budget hotel with retro
styling is truly splendid. All rooms have balconies over-
looking Teatro Solís, and each has a different shabby-chic
personality. There's a kitchen you can use and the breakfast
is good; the only downside is that it's above the most
popular bars in the Ciudad Vieja, so bring earplugs. Rooms
sleep 1-5 people. Doubles UR$900
Ukelele Maldonado 1183 between Michelini and Ruíz
T 29027844, W ukelelehostel.com. You can really relax in
what was the family home of owner Patricia. This enor-
mous house with soaring ceilings eschews the institu-
tional feel that you find in many hostels, and, unusually for
Montevideo, has a pool and nice patio garden. With no
heating, the pl ace beco mes a litt le fridge- like in winter,
though. Dorms UR$350 , doubles UR$1040

10

ACCOMMODATION
Although the Ciudad Vieja is dotted with cheap hotels and
hostels, away from the pedestrianized Sarandí it can be
unsafe at night. The Barrio Sur is a good bet for character
and excellently placed for the old town and nightlife
hotspots, while Punta Carretas and Pocitos are best for
safety, shopping, beaches and partying. Hostels will
usually offer bikes for rent and tango classes, and you can
also assume that breakfast, internet and wi-fi, a/c and
heat are provided unless otherwise mentioned. Prices
are given for the cheapest bed or double room in high
season, which starts in mid-Nov.

POCITOS AND PUNTA CARRETAS
Montevideo Up Riachuelo 175 T 27123463,
W montevideoup.com.uy. A somewhat chaotic place run
by a likeable family who make you feel welcome with
no set times for breakfast and free use of the washing
machine. In a pleasa nt neigh bourhood just one block
from the water. Dorms UR$440 , doubles UR$1100
Pocitos Sarmiento 2641 T 27118780, W pocitoshostel
.com. Let the good times roll in one of the city's most
likeable - if cramped - backpacker joints, with a lovely
garden and good rates on private rooms. Th e young
owners also hav e a hostel in Colonia. Dorms UR$360 ,
doubles UR$600
Puerto Verde José M. Montero 2948, Punta Carretas
T 27126172, W puertoverdehostel.com. A Chilean-run
petit hostel in wealthy Punta Carretas in a delightful house
filled with light and art. There's a commo n room with a
fireplace and a small patio. Dorms UR$320

BARRIO VIEJO AND CENTRO
Boulevard Sarandí Sarandí 405, at Zabala T 029153765,
W boulevardsarandihostel.com. This friendly family-run
hostel on Ciudad Vieja's pedestrian drag has a cosy layout
and is outfitted with gaucho items. The living ro om has a
bar and holds even ts such as jam sessions. Dorms UR$320 ,
doubles UR$1000
Ì Posada al Sur Pérez Castellano 1424 T 29165287,
W posadaalsur.com.uy. The most ethical choice in
Montevideo, with organic breakfasts and community-
oriented tours. Light common areas enhance the buena
onda (“good vibes”). Its location close to the port is great
during the day, but you might want t o take a t axi back at
night. Dor ms UR$350 , doubles UR$1050 , en-suite
apartment UR$1580

EATING
Café culture is big in Montevideo, with several galleries
and design stores doubling as cafés and small restaurants.
There are some truly great eating experiences to be
found. Restaurants open noon-4pm and 8pm-midnight
unless stated.