Uruguay - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 837

and dinner spot above the artisan market in the beautiful
old Mercado de la Abundancia. Menú del día UR$140-200.
Closed Sun.

BARRIO VIEJO AND CENTRO
Ì Brasilero Ituzaingó 1447 W cafebrasilero.com.uy.
Established in 1877, this is the most classic café in
Montevideo, with cosy dark wooden walls and furniture.
With its good, fresh food and huge selection of tea and
coffee, it's no wonder it has been favoured by Uruguayan
literary giants such Mario Benedetti and Eduardo Galeano.
Coffee and cake UR$75.
Confiteria 25 de Mayo 25 de Mayo 655, at Bartolomé
Mitre. A patisserie/bakery with an unbeatable selection of
snacks and takeaway lunches, but what it's really known
for are the mouth-watering pastries, sold by weight,
adorning the windows. Menú del día UR$180.
Ì Doméstico Reconquista 587. This gourmet café,
beloved among the city's arty crowd, serves fresh, seasonal
and inventive dishes and is tucked away in La Pasionaria
(see p.842). Mains UR$250.
La Pasiva Sarandí 600, Plaza de la Constitución. A
national institution for one thing and one thing only;
panchos (hot dogs) and beer at the bar. This one is the
original, but it is now a nationwide chain offering other
reliable fast food. Daily 8am-2am.
Posada Sur Paraguay, at Gardel. A neighbourhood
parrilla whose terrace has glimpses of the river, and
whose walls and food are infused with Uruguayan gaucho
tradition. For the less carnivorous there is fish, pasta and
salads too. Parrillada for two (plenty for three!) UR$595.
El Rincón Rincón, at Zabala, Ciudad Vieja & Buxareo 1321,
Pocitos. Those really on a shoestring cannot do better than
this empanada joint where whatever you choose is made
to order and arrives piping hot. There are twenty fillings to
choose from, both savoury and sweet. The molten dulce de
leche filling is divine. Empanadas UR$25-40.
Rincón de los Poetas San José 1312, at Yaguarón. For
big, cheap plates of comfort food, try this popular lunch

PUNTA CARRETAS AND POCITOS
Carbón, Sal y Leña España 2688, at Fco. Aguilar, Pocitos.
A highly recommended parrilla run by a friendly husband
and wife who cook arguably the best steak in the city on
their wood-fired grill. Imaginative sides, stir-fries and
home-made pasta too. Mains UR$200-400. Mon-Sat
from 8pm. Closed Jan.
Philomène Solano García 2455, at Miñones. An elegant,
but cosy, French-style café serving some great light bites -
including gourmet soups, sandwiches and salads (UR$160)
- as well as the finest real tea in the city. Closed Sun.

10

DRINKING AND NIGHTLIFE
There are a number of good bars in the Ciudad Vieja,
mainly along Bartolomé Mitre and Ciudadela. The area
known as the “World Trade Centre” in Pocitos (Av Dr. Luís
A. de Herrera leading up from the Rambla República del
Perú) has a huge number of bars and clubs, but they tend
to be more expensive than in the centre. Bars open in
the early evening and close in the early hours, when, at
weekends, clubs will open.

BARS AND CLUBS
Baar Fun Fun Cuidadela 1229 W baarfunfun.com.uy.
Open since 1895, Fun Fun is a small place steeped in the
history of tango, visited by guests from the president of
Chile to Bryan Adams. You can watch some top tango
singers and dancers while you try the house speciality
drink, uvita (similar to grappa), for just UR$80. Open Tues-
Sat, see board outside for what's on.
Burlesque Av Dr. Luís A de Herrera 1136. One of the most
popular bars in Pocitos, this Americana-themed bar has a
massive range of whiskies (over 70), good Tex-Mex food
and is a great place to start - or finish - on this buzzing
nightlife boulevard. Daily from 6.30pm.
Caín Dance Cerro Largo 1833 W caindance.com. Uruguay
is one of the most gay-friendly countries in South America
and Caín is the most friendly gay club in town, getting its
groove on every Fri and Sat night. Opens at midnight,
though no one goes before 3am.
Living Paulier 1050. A chilled-out grungy bar, between
the centre and Pocitos, that will make you feel at home
in Montevideo. The staff will join you for a shot of the
house Grappamiel (UR$60), and DJs might take over the
downstairs room. Open Wed-Sun 9pm-3/6am.
Ì Museo del Vino Maldonado 1150 T 29083430,
W museodelvino.com.uy. Despite its name this is no
museum but a wine (only national wines are sold) and
tango bar. Live music can command covers of up to
UR$250, but the ambience is well worth it. There are free

Ì TREAT YOURSELF
The fantastically atmospheric Mercado del
Puerto (see p.838) has become a victim of
its own success with most restaurants
offering overpriced and distinctly average
food. While El Palenque ( T 29170190,
W elpalenque.com.uy) may be a little
overpriced (the UR$80 cover charge could
almost buy you a whole meal elsewhere),
it bucks the trend by serving truly
excellent food. You'll end up spending at
least UR$500 for the fresh seafood and
meat, cooked on the grill in front of you,
but it's worth it. Usually open for lunch
and dinner Mon-Sat, lunch only on Sun;
closed Sun or Mon (depending on time
of year).