Peru - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 817

9 CROSSING INTO COLOMBIA OR BRAZIL: THE THREE WAY FRONTIER

Leaving or entering Peru via the Amazon is an intriguing adventure; by river this inevitably means
experiencing the three-way frontier . The cheapest and most common route is by river from
Iquitos to Santa Rosa , some ten to twelve hours by rápida (speedboat; S200 one-way) or
2.5-3 days in a standard riverboat (from S80 hammock one-way; cabin from S130). Remember
if going for a cheaper hammock space, you need to bring your own. Boats will drop you off at
immigration, where you must obtain an exit stamp from Peru if you're leaving (you must show
your tourist card to do this), or get an entry stamp and tourist card if arriving. Larger boats
may take you all the way to Tabatinga (Brazil) or Leticia (Colombia), in which case an immigration
o cial may board the vessel and do the paperwork there and then.
There are few hostels and cafés in Santa Rosa; the small La Brisa del Amazonas is both, and the
owner is a useful source of information. Once through immigration, ferries (10min; around S6)
connect the town with Tabatinga and Leticia (they're pretty much extensions of the same city).
It's possible to fly from Iquitos to near the three-way frontier. There are currently no direct
flights to Santa Rosa, although the route tends to be run by small airlines that come and go
- so your best bet is to check in with the tourist o ce for the latest information. There are
currently flights with the Peruvian air force (FAP) to Caballo Cocha bookable through travel
agency Contactus (Jr. La Condamine 493; T 065 608 828; one-way from S200). Departures are
on Mon, Wed & Fri. From Caballo Cocha you can hop on a rápido (2hr) to Santa Rosa.

(about 1.5 percent of the landmass of
Peru and the size of Israel) and is home
to the Cocama tribe. The reserve is
a swampland during the rainy season
(Dec-March), when the streams and
rivers all rise; as such you'll see very
different wildlife in the high-water and
low-water seasons (both good in different
ways). Athough it can end up costing
more than lodge stays in Iquitos, for
anyone interested in wildlife this reserve
offers an unbelievable quantity and
variety of flora and fauna; more than
a thousand types of vertebrates exist
here, including nearly a third of the bird
species of Peru and one percent of the
reptile species of the world.
Note that while it's possible to visit
the reserve via an operator in Iquitos,
you'll need at least five days to explore it
properly, and it won't be cheap (lodges
cost double or more than ones nearer
Iquitos). The cheapest way to do it is to
go to the town of Lagunas (one day
upstream from Yurimaguas) and find
a tour/guide going from there - although
it's best to call in advance and organize
something. You can do the same from
Nauta if coming from Iquitos, though
this tends to be a little more expensive.
It's recommended that you go with a
licensed operator from Iquitos; if you do,
the entry fee to the park (S60 for 3 days;

S120 for 7 days) will be included. If
you are determined to go alone, talk to
SERNANP before you go, as it provides
maps and information on the region
- you're meant to be accompanied by
a guide at all times. You should, of
course, bring mosquito nets, hammocks,
insect repellent and all the necessary food
and medicines.

The Southern
Jungle
Part of the Peruvian Amazon basin -
a large, forested region with a searingly
hot and humid climate, punctuated with
sudden cold spells ( friajes ) between June
and August - the southern selva regions
of Peru have only been systematically
explored since the 1950s and were largely
unknown until the twentieth century,
when rubber began to leave Peru through
Bolivia and Brazil, eastwards along the
rivers. Cusco is the best base for trips into
the jungles of the southern selva, with
road access to the frontier town of Puerto
Maldonado , itself a good base for budget
travellers. The nearby forests of Madre de
Dios are rich in flora and fauna, especially
in the Manu Biosphere Reserve .