Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
9
weekend crowds. Be aware that currents
here are pretty strong and, although
there are lifeguards, drownings have
occurred.
he best beaches are by Santa Clara ,
also west of Iquitos on the Río Nanay, at
a turn-off near the airport (S6 by motokar
to the turn-off; 20min). From here the
road is sand, so you'll either have to
negotiate another price with often-
reluctant drivers from the city (S4 more
to go the whole way to the beach) or pick
up another ride with a more willing local
colectivo that leaves when full (S1.50 per
person). Note the beaches can only be
visited in summer when the river is low
(July to Oct).
Moronacocha and around
On the western edge of Iquitos,
a tributary of the Nanay forms a long
lake called Moronacocha , a popular
resort for swimming and waterskiing.
Near the airport, still on the Nanay,
is the agricultural and fishing village
of Santo Tomás (renowned for its
artesanía ), where you can swim and
canoe from the beach.
PACAYA SAMIRIA NATIONAL
RESERVE
RESERVA NACIONAL PACAYA SAMIRIA ,
around 130km southwest of Iquitos,
covers over 20,000 square kilometres
IQUITOS TOURS AND JUNGLE LODGES
The massive river system around Iquitos offers some of the best access to indigenous
villages, lodges and primary rainforest in the entire Amazon. You can go it alone with the
colectivo boats that run more or less daily up and down the Amazon River, but it's usually
best to travel with one of the many lodges or tour companies (see below). Note that many
tours include a visit to a jungle tribe who put on the same show multiple times a day,
specially donning traditional dress that they long ago stopped wearing, and tourists are
often disappointed.
When choosing a lodge, consider its distance from Iquitos, the company's commitment to
conservation, the level of comfort you want and what's included in the price. Most lodge
itineraries will include dolphin-watching, fishing, visiting a local village and night walks. While
you can often book when you turn up in Iquitos and barter, the best companies should be
booked in advance, have fixed prices and never tout for business in the street. Prices below are
based on a three-day/two-night stay for two people, per person, and the addresses included
are for the Iquitos-based booking o ces. Companies mostly fix prices in US dollars, so prices
in soles may change according to the exchange rate. A lot of lodges also do day visits, which
include lunch, a jungle walk and sometimes a visit to an animal sanctuary.
TOUR OPERATORS
Cumaceba Lodge Putumayo 184 T 065 232 229,
W cumaceba.com. A highly recommended slightly
cheaper option on the Río Yanayacu, some 40km
downriver from Iquitos (45min by speedboat), with
accommodation in private rustic bungalows with
individual bathrooms. Also runs an explorer camp
downriver. US$303.
Ì Explorama Av la Marina 340 T 065 252 530,
W explorama.com. Explorama is the top operator in the
region and has a good reputation for responsible tourism;
not cheap but worth it. It has four sites in the jungle
(see website) offering everything from remote camping
to the most luxurious lodge in the Amazon. It's possible
to go between sites and tailor your stay to include an
excursion to the company's canopy walkway. Ceiba Tops
(the most luxurious option, with a/c & pool) US$455.
Heliconia Lodge Ricardo Palma 242 T 065 231 959,
W amazonriverexpeditions.com. A reputable company
offering traditional lodge trips as well as birdwatching
stays for groups, boat cruises (it has a luxury house
boat), or time split between the lodge and one of their
two hotels in Iquitos (the Victoria Regia and Hotel
Acosta ). Also has a lodge in Pacaya Samiria and can
offer access to Explorama's canopy walkway. US$330.
Ì Muyuna Putumayo 163 T 065 242 858,
W muyuna.com. Located close to the Pacaya-Samiria
Reserve, and one of the furthest lodges from Iquitos,
Muyuna offers rustic but comfortable accommodation
and very good service. The lodge works hard to
distinguish itself as a protector of wild animal rights;
and staff are proud to tell you that they will not take
you to visit a pre-prepared tribe who will perform
then ask for tips. S1,060.
 
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