Peru - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 786

THE CORDILLERA BLANCA
The highest range in the tropical world,
the Cordillera Blanca consists of around
35 peaks poking their snowy heads over
the 6000m mark, and until early in the
twentieth century, when the glaciers
began to recede, this white crest could
be seen from the Pacific. Above Yungay,
and against the sensational backdrop of
Peru's highest peak, Huascarán (6768m),
are the magnificent Llanganuco Lakes ,
whose waters change colour according
to the time of year and the movement
of the sun.
Fortunately, most of the Cordillera
Blanca falls under the auspices of the
Huascarán National Park , and the
habitat has been left relatively unspoiled.
Among the more exotic wildlife are
viscacha (Andean rabbit-like creatures),
vicuña, grey deer, pumas, foxes, the
rare spectacled bear and several species
of hummingbirds.
To get here without an organized trek,
take a combi along the valley to Yungay or
Caraz and ask around for recommended
guides (check them out first with the
Casa de Guías in Huaraz).

CARAZ
Further along the valley north from
Huaraz are the distinct settlements of
Yungay and the much prettier and
friendly CARAZ . The town sits at an
altitude of 2285m, making it much
warmer than Huaraz, and palm trees
and flowers adorn a classic colonial
Plaza de Armas . While most people
come for the hiking or cycling trails
around the town, there's enough here
to divert you for a day or so, most
notably the pre-Chavín era remains of
Tumshukayko (daily 8am-5pm; free),
an archeological structure about 1km
uphill from the Plaza de Armas (turn
right once you hit Av 28 de Julio). This
impressive series of stone walls, stairways
and terraces (the layers have been dated
to between 2500 BC and 300 AD) needs
a huge amount more excavation to make
greater sense of it, but is nevertheless
fascinating to wander around. Finally, no
stay in Caraz would be complete without
careful consideration of the dessert menu:
Caraz is famous for its manjar blanco -
a caramel-like substance similar to dulce
de leche ; all bakeries in town sell it.

9

HIKING IN THE HUARAZ REGION
Given the scope of the mountain ranges and the passion of mountaineers, it's not surprising
that there is an enormous range of hikes and guides in the area. Anyone interested in really
getting stuck in should arm themselves with good maps and detailed guidebooks, and talk
to everyone in town, from hostel owners to expats. Wherever you end up, be sure to pay
heed to the rules of responsible trekking : carry away your waste, particularly above the
snow line, where even organic waste does not decompose. And always carry a camping stove
- campfires are strictly prohibited in Huascarán National Park. It's also vital to be fit, particularly
if you are going it alone.
It's essential to spend at least a couple of days acclimatizing to the altitude before
attempting a hike; if you intend high mountain climbing, this should be extended to at least
five days. Although Huaraz itself is 3060m above sea level, most of the Cordilleras' more
impressive peaks are over 6000m.
HIRING A GUIDE
Going hiking alone without an agency is possible, but not recommended to anyone
but the most experienced hikers and climbers, and you'll likely end up paying a lot more
as you'll be shouldering the costs alone. Be very careful when hiring an independent
guide and always check them out with the Casa de Guías (see p.788), which has a list
of all qualified guides in the area. On top of the national park fee (S65) and guide's fee
(around US$60 per day for someone certified), you'll be expected to foot the bill for return
transport, accommodation and food for everyone hired to help. Auxillary porters, mule
drivers ( arrieros ) and cooks will each cost you around US$10 a day, plus an additional US$10
per day per pack-carrying mule or llama.