Peru - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 787

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
By plane Anta Airport is 45km from Caraz and has a daily
flight to and from Lima (50min). There's a regular bus
service to town (S5) or Pony Exhbitions can organize a
minibus (for groups).
By bus Most of the bus terminals are along Daniel Villar
and Córdova, within a block or two of the Plaza de Armas.
From anywhere in the Callejón de Huaylas, it's best to go
back through Huaraz and down the main road to the coast.
The only other alternative is to take the road north from
Caraz via the Cañon del Pato down to Chimbote on the
coast, where you'll have to change buses.
Destinations The main routes are Chimbote via Cañon del
Pato (2 daily; 7-10hr); Lima (7 daily; 8hr); Trujillo (5 daily;
8-10hr).

EATING
Eating in Caraz is basic. The small daily market, three blocks
north of the plaza, is good for fresh food and traditional
Andean goods.
Café de Rat Above Pony Expeditions on Jr. Sucre 1266
T 043 391 642. It may sound unsanitary, but Cafferata is the
owner's surname and the place has the joint appeal of cheap,
good food (including vegetarian) and a cosy feeling like that
of being in someone's kitchen. The little balcony overlooks
the main square. Best for pizza (S15-29) and breakfasts (S5-
12). Has wi-fi too. Mon-Sat 8am-11am & 6-10pm.
Café La Terraza Jr. Sucre 1107 T 043 301 226, W hostal
carazdulzura.com. Probably the best place in town to grab
a cappuccino or espresso. Also does excellent artisan ice
cream (S2) using regional fruits. Daily 7am-11pm.
Restaurant Jeny Plaza de Armas T 043 391 101. Offers
tasty good-value set menus (S6) as well as some traditional
and Chinese dishes plus sandwiches and breakfasts. Daily
8am-9pm.

9

GETTING AROUND
By mototaxi Everywhere in Caraz is walkable; don't let
the mototaxis charge you more than S1 for anywhere in
town (S2 to bus terminals outside the centre).
By combi Combis pull in at Av Sucre, three blocks south
of the Plaza de Armas.

Trujillo and
the North
Pizarro, on his second voyage to Peru in
1528, sailed by the ancient Moche site
of Chan Chan , then still a major city and
an important regional centre of Inca rule.
He returned to establish a Spanish colony
in the same valley, naming it Trujillo after
his birthplace in Extremadura. Despite
two Inca rebellions, the Spanish hold
was lasting and Trujillo grew to become
the main port of call for the Spanish
treasure fleets. It still boasts one of the
most impressive colonial centres in Peru,
as well as some of the grandest pre-Inca
remains, but this city of more than one
million feels modern and there's plenty
to keep visitors occupied.
North of Trujillo the vast desert
stretches all the way to the Ecuadorian
frontier just past Tumbes , passing the
modern city of Chiclayo as well as Peru's
liveliest beach resort, Máncora - and
some genuinely unspoilt stretches for the
adventurous. This area has an incredible
wealth of pre-Inca pyramids, tombs
and temple sites to explore, as well as
world-class museums, many of which
can be easily visited in day-trips from
the main cities. Including some of the

INFORMATION AND TOURS
Tourist office In the municipality building on the
Plaza de Armas. Keeps sporadic hours, but try it for
maps and brochures covering the attractions and hikes
in the area.
Pony Expeditions Jr. Sucre 1266, at Plaza de Armas.
T 043 391 642, W ponyexpeditions.com. A professional and
knowledgeable organization good for local information.
Offers tours of the area (including the stunning Cañón del
Pato) as well as guides for trekking. Prices get cheaper the
larger the groups are.

ACCOMMODATION
Hostal La Casona Jr. Raimondi 319 T 043 391 334.
Shabby but full of character, this place is set around a
nice courtyard and the prices cannot be argued with -
alth ough if you do you'll find they become even cheaper.
S2 Ì Los Pinos Lodge Parque San Martín 103 T 043 391
130, W lospinoslodge.com. This hostel on a little plaza
five minutes' walk from the centre has colourful and
tastefully decorated common areas with a retro feel.
The bedrooms are not as impressive, but offer basic
accommodation at reasonable rates. Also offers camping
spac e and wi-fi. Breakfast included. Camping/person
S20 , doubles S120
San Marco Jr. San Martín 1133 T 043 391 558. Just off
the plaza, this hostel in a pretty colonial building has
somewhat dark rooms, but the gorgeous courtyards more
than make up for it, and all l roo ms have private bath and
TV. Breakfast not included. S40