The Guianas - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 679

EXCURSIONS FROM SAINT LAURENT
The Maroni River lends itself to a variety of activities - from visits to Amerindian and Maroon
villages by pirogue to swimming, fishing, wildlife-spotting and jungle trekking. Trips range from
two-hour to multi-day adventures.
Apatou is an Aluku Maroon village, about 70km upriver from St Laurent, and is a great place
to experience Maroon culture, food and lifestyle. Although now accessible by road, there is no
public transport (though you can conceivably hitch a ride with a “bush taxi”, i.e. hitchhike).
Maroni Tours (see below) arrange visits to the village as well as longer stays.
A visit to the secluded Voltaire Falls , about 73km south of St Laurent, is very rewarding.
Getting there involves a 4WD journey through dense forest via the Route de Paul Isnard and
Route d'Apatou forest roads, followed by a one-hour-thirty-minute hike. You can stay either at
L'Auberge des Chutes Voltaire ( W aubergechutesvoltaire.com; doubles €60, carbets €12-17;
advance bookings only), on the banks of the Voltaire River, close to Voltaire Falls, or else you
can hang your hammock for free further up the hiking trail.
TOUR OPERATORS
Agami Village Espérance T 594 347 403.
Maroni Tours Village de Saint-Jean T 594 341 175,

W maronitours.com.
Tropic Cata 1 Esplanade Laurent Baudin Saint Laurent
T 594 342 518.

7

Star Hôtel 26 Thiers T 594 341 084. This central hotel
won't win any architectural prizes, but the anonymous
tiled rooms are spotless an d gu ests have use of the large
swimming pool. Free wi-fi. €58

ambience and there are music sessions on Sun nights.
Mains €13-17. Closed Mon, Tues lunch and Sun lunch.
Le Mambari 7 Rue Jean Jacques. Perch at one of the picnic-
style tables outside or prop up the bar at this new French/
Creole joint; mains €8-18. DJs on Thurs, while on Fri and Sat
it's time for “soirée NO STRESS”. Closed Sun & Mon.
Mora Snack Rue Louise Orsini. Pull up a plastic chair at this
informal little spot, decked out in Christmas lights, and chow
down on the excellent saté , burgers and sausages (but avoid
the insipid French fries). Mains €3-4. Daily 5-11pm.

EATING AND DRINKING
At dusk, things get lively at the waterfront, just south of
the immigration o ce. The beer shacks and food stands
are a great place to watch the sun set over the Maroni River
(just don't bring any valuables along).
Ì Chez Felicia 23 Av de Général de Gaulle. A local
institution, still going strong after 25 years. The basic menu
focuses on generous portions of Creole dishes, such as
fricassée , and wild game. Mains €9-12. Closed Sun evening.
Chez Titi 18 Av Félix Eboué. Open-air pizzeria with
outdoor tables, pizza that's decent without wowing, and
an assortment of French, Creole and grilled dishes (mains
€10-20). A bakery attached to the restaurant will give
you love handles. Closed Sun & Mon.
Ì La Goëlette Balaté Plage T 594 342 897. This boat-
cum-restaurant, complete with frolicking cats and dogs,
is the most atmospheric place for a meal for miles around.
The quality of the Creole and French dishes matches the

DIRECTORY
Banks and exchange BFC, at 11 Ave Félix Eboué;
BRED, at 30 Rue Thiers. There is no currency exchange in
St Laurent.
Car rental Budget ( T 594 340 294, W budget-guyane
.com) has an o ce by the Texaco service station (closed
between noon and 3pm).
Internet Upgrade Computer, at 25 Rue Félix Eboué.
Pharmacy Pharmacie Centrale, at 22 Av du Général de
Gaulle.

PLAGE LES HATTES
From roughly March to July, the wide,
clean stretch of sand that is PLAGE LES
HATTES , situated at the mouth of the
Maroni River a few kilometres from the
Suriname border, is French Guiana's best
place to view endangered leatherback
turtles laying their eggs. Leatherbacks
are massive - they can grow up to 2m in
length and weigh almost 900kg. During
the peak of the egg-laying season, it is
estimated that up to 200 of these giants

CONVICT ART
If you happen to be driving between
St Laurent and Cayenne, you'll invariably
pass through Iracoubo. The Eglise Saint
Joseph d'Iracoubo by the roadside is
a church famed for its amazing interior
covered with brightly coloured frescoes,
painted by French convict and painter
Pierre Huguet between 1892 and 1898.
Well worth getting out of the car for.