Ecuador - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 614

Ì Marco's For something a bit more intimate, try Marco's ,
where a delightful lady serves up large portions of sump-
tuous seafood dishes such as encocado (seafood cooked in
coconut and garlic) and cazuela (fish and plantain casserole)
in an elegantly furnished setting (mains $4-7).
Oh Mar Principal. For a feast of seafood in a more refined
setting head a block inland. Ceviche , encocado , shrimps, as
well as steaks and pork chops all cooked well. $6-9.
Pizzeria da Giulio For a break from seafood, head to
this Italian-Ecuadorian place, which takes pride in offering
sumptuous fresh pizza and pasta dishes (mains $4-12).

Internet There are several internet cafés inland in town
on Rua Luis Cervantes and opposite the Parque Central.

ACCOMMODATION
Atacames has a vast amount of accommodation ranging
from dirt-cheap cabins to luxurious tourist complexes. It
can be surprisingly hard to find anything decent during
peak periods so book ahead. Note that prices can rise by
around fifty percent in high season.
Andy Malecón, at Los Ostiones T 06 276 0221. This beach-
front hotel is cleaner than other budget options and has
good, well-kept room s (fo r the price) with fans and TV,
although it gets noisy. $20
Carmita Las Taguas, at Malecón T 06 273 1784. For a
quieter stay just off th e sea front, this hostal is good value
with cable TV and a/c. $20
Chill Inn Los Ostiones, at Malecón T 06 276 0477,
W chillinnecuador.com. Comfortable rooms, communal
TV, kitchen for guest use and a small bar make for a homely
atmosphere at this new Swiss -run hostel. There are only
four rooms so book in advance. $20
Galería Malecón T 06 273 1149. The cheapest pla ce on
the seafront, with friendly staff but very basic rooms. $15
Jennifer Malecón, at C La Tolita T 06 273 1055, W hostal
jennifer.com. Another dependable budget choice just off
the Malec ón, w ith peach-coloured, clean rooms equipped
with fans. $15

6

MOMPICHE
The tiny little village of MOMPICHE is
home to one of the most beautiful
beaches in Ecuador. This, combined
with great surfing conditions, has
increased its popularity recently. The
backpacker community is supplemented
by a different class of tourist thanks to
a new luxury hotel, Royal Decameron ,
which has opened on the hill above town,
increasing tourist traffic and helping to
improve the town's facilities.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
By bus Getting to Mompiche is not that easy. There are
a few buses daily from Esmeraldas via Atacames (3hr). If
you just miss one, either take a bus to Muisne and change
at El Salto, or take a bus to Pedernales and ask the driver
to drop you off at the entrance to Mompiche. From there,
you can hitch a ride or sweat it on a 30min walk. From the
south travel via Pedernales and then Chamanga.

EATING AND NIGHTLIFE
You're spoilt for choice for seafood restaurants. The beach
stalls at the south end of the Malecón sell cheap ceviche
(a popular hangover cure for breakfast) and most of the
restaurants offer similarly good fish and shellfish dishes.
After dinner there are scores of beach bars in which to
enjoy cocktails and dancing - they are usually either
packed or empty. One of those most popular is Caida del
Sol (sunset). All restaurants are on the Malecón unless
otherwise indicated.
Delicias del Mar Out of the many seafood restaurants
along the seafront, this is the most popular budget choice,
always jam-packed with locals and tourists wolfing down
fish soup and breaded shrimps. Set menu just $3.

ACCOMMODATION
Unless you have hundreds to spend per night, the town
has limited accommodation options and is booked up
during busy periods.
La Facha T 098 873 4271. This Argentine-owned place
is another good choice, with great-val ue room is and pizza
and barbecues in the small restaurant. $14.20
Gabeal T 099 969 6543. The best budget option in town,
located up the beach to the right. This ecolodge has rooms
in bamboo cabins, each with a private bathroom. The
building next to the beach is more basic, whil e the newer
building has more spacious mid-range rooms. $25
San Marena T 099 191 6115. A 5m in w alk inland, this
budget hotel has large rooms with TV. $20

Ì TREAT YOURSELF
El Marqués Malecón T 06 276 0182.
Set back from the beach, the towering
glass facade of this new hotel stands
out above anything else in Atacames.
It's hardly full of character but it's
the most upscale place in town,
with spacious, impeccable rooms,
a small gym an d pool, plus breakfast
is included.

EATING
La Langosta A block inland to the south of the main
road, this is renowned as the best place in town for lobster,
ceviche and fried fish. $4-7.

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