Ecuador - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 615

Caráquez (Bolívar 902; T 05 269 1412) and Canoa ( T 099
147 9849).

Ì TREAT YOURSELF
Royal Decameron Mompiche T 02 602
5602, W decameron.com. Blow your budget
completely on the newest, swankiest hotel
on the Ecuadorian coast. Perched on a
headland above town, it boasts six
swimming pools, four restaurants, and
boats to a private beach o n isla nd Portete.
Discounts for longer stays.

ACCOMMODATION
Accommodation prices are seasonal. The following prices
are for high season (Dec-April & national holidays). They
are about 50 percent cheaper out of season.
Bambú T 098 926 5225, W hotelbambuecuador.com. At
the north end of the beach is Canoa's most happening
hotel. Rooms are small but the vibrant atmosphere and
beautiful beachfront gardens make up for it. The restaurant
is worth visiting even if y ou do n't stay. Surfb oards are
available for rent. Camping $3.50 , doubles $22
Canoa's Wonderland Malecón, at C San Andre T 05 261
6363, W hotelcanoaswonderland.com.ec. This hotel stands
out as one of the few plush options in Canoa, with a pleasant
bar, re stau rant, rooftop terrace, swimming pool and a/c
rooms. $90
Coco Loco T 099 544 7260, W hostalcocoloco.weebly.com.
Two blocks left of the junction with the beach are these
basic rooms in a large thatched bamboo house with fans,
hammocks on the balconies, kitc hen, bar with cocktails and
a friendly atmosphere. Dorms $6 , doubles $18
Ì Pais Libre T 05 261 6387. This very popular hotel is
run by friendly local surfer Favio Coello. Rooms are well
kept, the hotel is decorated with artwork, there's a disco/
ba r next doo r an d a small pool set in leafy gardens. Dorms
$6 , doubles $20
Posada Olmito Javier Santos T 099 553 3341. An
endearing Dutch-owned place with ba sic r ooms in an
intricately constructed wooden building. $20
Sundown Beach Hostel Km2 Via San Vicente T 099 981
5763, W ecuadorbeach.com. A 20min walk from town, this
quiet beachfront hostel is a good spot to get away from it
all, wit h p rivate pat io, g arden and communal atmosphere.
Dorms $8 , doubles $24
La Vista Hotel T 098 647 0222. Next to Coco Loco , this
mid-range beachfront hotel offers more comfor tabl e, airy
rooms, all with sea view and private bathroom. $24

6

$150

El Punto Encuentro You can get your seafood fill at any
of the restaurants on the beachfront. This is a dependable
option. $4-6.

CANOA
CANOA is rather like the Montañita of ten
years ago - a quiet fishing village that has
developed into a laidback resort by virtue
of its beautiful beach and great surfing
conditions. It has a dramatic setting, with
waves crashing upon long stretches of
sand flanked by steep cliffs. At present, it's
probably Ecuador's best beach resort for
budget travellers without the overblown
craziness of Atacames or Montañita,
but it's changing fast and can get pretty
crowded on high season weekends.
An interesting excursion from Canoa is
Río Muchacho Organic Farm , where you
can see sustainable farming in practice
and learn about the culture of the
Montubios (coastal farmers). Guided hikes,
horseriding and birdwatching are available.

ARRIVAL
By bus From Quito there are now direct buses with
Transvencedores and Reina del Camino from Quitumbe bus
station (daily; 7hr). There are more regular buses from Quito
to Bahía de Caráquez; from there take a bus to Canoa (twice
hourly; 20min). The opening of an impressive new bridge
makes it easier to reach Canoa from Bahia, although you can
still take the ferry across the bay and a bus from San Vicente.
From Pedernales, there are buses to Canoa every 30min or so.

EATING AND NIGHTLIFE
Canoa has plenty of restaurants - mainly informal beach-
front places offering fresh seafood, though some new
options have opened recently. Nightlife is restricted but
quite busy in the bars on the main street at weekends and
on national holidays.
Amalur C San Andres. A few blocks from the beach, this
is one of Canoa's few upmarket options and specializes in
Spanish food such as tortillas, meatballs and octopus
(dishes $5-8). They've just opened a small but great-value
hotel at the back ($20).
Café Flor Malecón. A block or so behind La Vista Hotel , this
cosy café serves a range of Mexican, Italian and vegetarian
dishes in an informal setting. They also have real ales. $5-10.

INFORMATION AND TOURS
Tourist information There is no tourist o ce, though the
Rio Muchacho O ce a block inland on Av 3 de Noviembre,
at Javier Santos, has plenty of information and friendly
staff. The guys at Surf Shak (see p.620) are also full of advice
on local tours.
Tour operators Guacamayo Bahiatours offers all-inclusive
tours (1 day $30, 3 days $115). Its o ces are in Bahía de