Ecuador - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 594

THE DEVIL'S NOSE TRAIN RIDE
As the name suggests, this train ride is not for the faint-hearted, but it's an exhilarating
experience. Riobamba is the starting point and the 100km line stretches from there southwest
via Alausí to Sibambe. The journey is relatively laidback at first, with sweeping views of Andean
valleys. The final part of the ride is the main event - a hair-raising 800m descent through
a series of tight switchbacks carved out of the steep mountainside. Tourists used to ride on
the roof to get the full dramatic effect but the authorities have banned this after the deaths
of two Japanese people in 2007.
After a long period of renovation, this service resumed in 2012. The train leaves Riobamba
Tuesday to Sunday at 6.30am and takes around five hours to get to Sibambe. It returns to
Riobamba at 5pm. Tickets ($30) can be purchased from Riobamba's train station ( T 03 296
1909). The section between Alausí and Sibambe is the most interesting part of the trip so if
you want the shortened version, board the train in Alausí (daily 8am, 11am and 3pm; $25;
2hr 30min including lunch). A cheaper Devil's Nose trolleybus service runs Friday to Sunday
at 9am ($7) but is extremely popular and fills up fast. Visit W ecuadorbytrain.com for further
information on all routes.

6

Tren Dorado Carabobo 22-35, at 10 de Agosto T 03 296
4890. A popular option for travellers, with compact but
perfectly adequate rooms and a friendly atmosphere.
A filling buffet breakf ast ($3) is available in the café at
5.30am on train days. $22

Riobamba. On a day-trip you can walk
from the lower refuge (4800m) to the
second refuge (5000m), but bear in mind
that the climb in altitude from Riobamba
could leave you suffering. For experienced
mountaineers planning to tackle the
summit, there are several tour operators in
Riobamba charging $220 for a two-day
tour. Recommended operators include:
Alta Montaña, on Avenida Daniel León
Borja at Diego Ibarra ( T 03 294 2215);
and Andes Trek, on Colón 22-25, at 10 de
Agosto ( T 03 294 0964, W andes-trek.com).
For non-climbers, enjoy the unworldly
moonscapes and sweeping páramo that
are home to thousands of alpaca, vicuñas
and llamas. This enormous park stretches
over 580 square kilometres in three
provinces. It also contains Carihuairazo
(5020m), used as a preparation climb.
One-day hiking tours to Chimborazo
National Park cost from $50 per person
with tour operators in Riobamba.
Alternatively, take a bus to Guaranda
and ask to be let off near the refuge
(8km from the main road) or take a taxi
from Riobamba ($35).

EATING AND DRINKING
El Delirio Primera Constituyente 28-16 T 03 296 6441.
This traditional colonial house is the perfect place for a
romantic meal accompanied by live music, set inside
a sleepy courtyard with a log fire to ward off the chills.
Book in advance. Mains, including filet mignon, $6-9.
Ì Pizzeria d'Baggio Av Leon Borja 33-24 T 03 296
1832. Unbeatable for sumptuous pizzas and calzone hand-
made in front of you. Pizzas $4-8.
El Rey de Burrito Borja 38-36 T 03 295 3230. The best
bet for burritos and enchiladas with plenty of vegetarian
options. $3-5.
San Valentín Av Leon Borja, at Torres T 03 296 3137. For
something cheap and cheerful, try the Tex-Mex and varied
fast food served in an informal atmosphere. Mains $3-5.
Sierra Nevada Primera Constituyente 27-38 T 03 295
1542. A good-value eatery offering imaginative seafood
and meat dishes. Mains $5-7.
El Tentadero Av León Borja. Nightlife is limited in Riobamba
but this club, just up from San Valentín , pumps out reggaeton,
merengue and salsa until late (Thurs-Sat; $2).

VOLCÁN CHIMBORAZO
Just 30km northwest of Riobamba, the
extinct Volcán Chimborazo looms large. At
6310m, it's Ecuador's highest peak and the
furthest point from the centre of the Earth
due to the equatorial ridge. The mountain
has good roads so is easily visited from

ALAUSÍ
This small town is back on the tourist
map with the regeneration of the train
line. Situated in a verdant valley with
steep hills rising up on all sides, Alausí
is a very pleasant town to base yourself
for the most exhilarating train ride in