Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Ecuador: the Devil's Nose train ride
(see box opposite). Although the train
runs from Riobamba, it's worth picking it
up here to experience the best part of the
journey. The town itself is not filled with
attractions but the walk up to the huge
statue of Saint Peter ten minutes from the
centre offers excellent views over the town
and valley. For even better views, head up
to Hosteria Pircapamba and hire horses
to ride around the hills.
The Southern
Highlands
South of Riobamba, the majestic
mountains of the Central Highlands fade
from view to be replaced by undulating
green hills. The tourist hub of the region
is Cuenca , Ecuador's third-largest city
and possibly its most beautiful. Cuenca
is also the best base to explore the Incan
archeological site Ingapirca , and the
rugged moors and lakes of Parque
Nacional El Cajas .
South of Cuenca, distances between
towns lengthen and the climate
warms up. The historic plazas and
award-winning parks of the provincial
capital of Loja are worth visiting before
heading to the relaxing backpacker
favourite of Vilcabamba , nicknamed the
“Valley of Longevity”. Recharge your
batteries and take advantage of great
hiking and horseriding trails in the
surrounding hills.
6
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
By bus There are regular bus services (quicker and cheaper
than the train) to Alausí from Riobamba (hourly; 2hr) and
Cuenca (daily; 4hr); Quito (daily; 5hr); and Guayaquil (daily;
5hr).
By truck or taxi To begin the Inca Trail to the south,
occasional trucks head to Achupallas from 5 de Junio, or
you can take a taxi.
ACCOMMODATION
Hotel Europa 5 de Junio T 03 293 0200. Dependable
budget option on the main stree t but fills up fast. Choose
from shared or private bath. $12
Hostal San Pedro 5 de Junio T 03 293 0089, W hostal
sanpedro.com.ec. The newest hotel in the centre, these
comfortable roo ms with private bath and cable TV are
great value. $30
INGAPIRCA
Between Riobamba and Cuenca lies
the site of Ingapirca (daily 8am-6pm;
$6 including guide), Ecuador's only
major Inca ruins. Those who've already
visited Peru may be disappointed by
this modest site; however, the complex
boasts the Inca Empire's sole remaining
sun temple. The site's strategic position
is impressive, at a height of over
3200m with panoramic views over the
surrounding countryside.
Ingapirca was built at the end of the
fifteenth century by Huayna Capac on
top of the ruins of a Cañari city. The
stone of the Cañari moon temple,
which the Inca preserved from its earlier
construction, is still visible. Sadly, much
of the site is now little more than stone
foundations and it takes imagination and
a guided tour to bring it to life.
EATING
Alausí has plenty of budget eateries but few stand out. If
money is tight choose from various set menus on the main
street. The restaurant under Hostal San Pedro is probably
the best of these.
Chifa Pekin 5 de Junio. A break from the usual Andean
fare. Choose from noodles, fried rice and a range of Chinese
soups. Mains $3-6.
El Meson del Tren Ricaurte, at Eloy Alfaro T 03 293
0243. The best restaurant in town offers a wide range of
meat and fish specialities. Try the tilapia, pork chops or
roast lamb at weekends. Mains $5-7.
Ì TREAT YOURSELF
Hosteria Pircabamba Villalva, at Pedro
de Loza T 03 293 0180, W pircapamba
.com. The best-located hotel in Alausí is
this friendly, family-run place high above
the town with breathtaking views of the
valley. Horseriding and hiking will keep
you busy during the day, and for the
evening there are piping-hot show ers and
a games room. Breakfast included.
WHAT TO SEE AND DO
Points of interest include the calendar
stone and sacrificial site, but the
highlight is the well-preserved Temple of
$46
 
Search WWH ::




Custom Search