Ecuador - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 583

It currently runs 45km from Ibarra's train
station ( T 06 295 0390) to Salinas at
7.30am Friday to Sunday. A return costs
$6.50. Another popular excursion is
to Laguna Yahuarcocha , which means
Lake of Blood due to its violent history
(tens of thousands of dead Cara soldiers
were dumped into the lake after an Incan
victory in 1495). You can rent boats or just
walk around the beautiful setting. Buses
run regularly at weekends from the obelisk
on Sanchez and Cifuentes.
ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION
By bus Aerotaxi and Expreso Turismo have regular services
to and from Quito's Carcelén terminal (hourly; 2hr 30min)
and Atacames (daily; 9hr); Trans Otavalo goes to and from
Otavalo (hourly; 35min); Expreso Turismo and Flota Imbabura
head to and from Tulcán for the Colombian border (hourly;
2hr 30min). Services depart from the terminal 1km out of
town, so to/from the centre take a bus ($0.25) or a taxi ($1).
Internet Zonanet, Moncayo 5-74 ($1/hr).
Tourist information García Moreno on Parque La Merced
(Mon-Fri 8.30am-1pm & 2-5pm; T 06 295 5711) supplies
free maps and general information.

Antojitos de mi Tierra Plaza de la Ibarreñidad. Tradi-
tional Ecuadorian dishes and tasty snacks such as humitas
and quimbolitos ($1-3).
Cafe Arte Salinas 5-43, at Oviedo. A wide variety of
international food - from burgers to tacos to filet mignon
- in a vibrant setting, with live music at weekends. Mains
$3-6. Mon-Sat 5pm till late.
Casa Blanca Bolívar, at Moncayo. A dependable choice for
breakfast and a great-value lunch ($3), popular with locals.
D'Gloria Oviedo, at Sucre. A good place for breakfast and
snacks. Choose from crêpes, fruit pies and salads for $3-6.
Donde El Argentino Plaza de la Ibarreñidad. A tiny place
that specializes in barbecued meats, ideal for eating
alfresco on sunny days. Mains $5-9.
Ì Heladería Rosalía Suárez Oviedo, at Olmedo.
Ibarra is famous for its sorbet and this is the best place to
try it. Ice creams $0.50-3.
El Horno Rocafuerte, at Flores. Great pizza (from $5)
cooked in a clay oven.

6

TULCÁN
he border between Ecuador and
Colombia is a problematic region and the
only recommended place to cross is via
TULCÁN . Don't wander out of town, and
take care at night. There's little reason to
stay here long, and, with Otavalo and
Ibarra only three hours south by bus,
staying in Tulcán overnight is unnecessary.
One sight worth a visit is the incredible
cemetery near Parque Ayora, whose

ACCOMMODATION
Most tourists stay at hotels in the historic centre of town,
which are more pleasant than the cheap hotels near the
train station southwest of the centre, an area that feels
unsafe at night.
Hostal El Retorno Pedro Moncayo, at Sucre T 06 295
7722. A very good d eal for the price: decent rooms with
TV and private bath. $16
Hotel Imbabura Oviedo 9-33, at Chica Narváez T 06
295 0155. A friendly, comfortable budget choice with
laundry service, inter net a nd basic, clean rooms set around
a pleasant courtyard. $10
Hotel Madrid Pedro Moncayo 7-41, at Olmedo T 06 295
6177. This quiet hotel feels slightly mor e up market with
slickly decorated, well-appointed rooms. $16
Hotel Montecarlo Rivadeneira 5-61, at Oviedo T 06
295 8266. One of the few upmarket hotels in the centre of
Ibarra. Well-appointe d roo ms with cable TV, a small pool
and spa at weekends. $44
Ì Hotel Nueva Estancia Garcia Moreno 7-58, at
Parque La Merced T 06 295 1444. Treat yourself at this
ideally located hotel across from Basílica La Merced. It has
spacious, carpeted rooms, cable TV, l aund ry service and
a good restaurant. Breakfast included. $31

CROSSING INTO COLOMBIA
Seven kilometres east of Tulcán, the
Rumichaca Bridge marks the busy
Colombian border , open daily
6am-10pm. To cross the border, obtain an
exit stamp from Ecuadorian customs, in
the Migración building, and an entry
stamp from the Colombians on the other
side of the bridge. The entry stamp for
Colombia is valid for 90 days (arriving from
Colombia, the Ecuadorians will also give you
up to 90 days and a tourist card, which you
retain until you leave the country). Buses to
the border leave from Parque Isidro Ayora
(15min; $0.80), while a taxi costs about $4.
From the border, Ipiales is the nearest town
with decent hotels. It is 3km away and you
can take a taxi shuttle ($1), bus ($0.50) or taxi
(around $2). O cial moneychangers
abound on the border, but check the
calculations before handing money over.

EATING AND DRINKING
There are plenty of cheap restaurants serving filling
almuerzos and meriendas for $2.