Ecuador - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 582

ACCOMMODATION
Otavalo has a lot of hotels for such a small town, most of
which are empty during the week but fill up at weekends
(it's recommended to book ahead for Friday or Saturday
night). The area near the market can be noisy and the best
hotels are found in the south of town.
Hostal Doña Esther Montalvo 4-44 T 06 292 0739,
W otavalohotel.com. Owned by a Dutch family, this
small colonial-style hotel has friendly service, a verdant
courtyard a nd a great restaurant with Mediterranean
specialities. $40
Hostal Los Andes Roca, at Juan Montalvo T 06 292 1057.
One of the cheapest options in town, overlookin g th e
market. Great view but the simple rooms can be noisy. $15
Otavalo Roca, at Juan Montalvo T 06 292 3712. Quiet,
colonial-style hotel with a spacious peac h-co loured interior
and immaculate rooms for a great price. $44
Otavalo Prince Sucre, at Garcia Moreno T 06 292 3200.
Extravagant exterior but cosy interior wit h lo w ceilings.
The low prices mean this place fills up fast. $24
Hostal Rincón del Viajero Roca 11-07 T 06 292 1741.
This is a hospitable option for budget travellers, with
artwork on the walls, a TV lounge with fireplace, rooftop
terrace with ham mock s, games room and restaurant.
Includes breakfast. $24
Riviera Sucre Roca, at Garcia Moreno T 06 292 0241,
W www.rivierasucre.com. Relaxing loung e are a, beautiful
garden and colourful, comfortable rooms. $26
Samay Inn Sucre, at Colon T 06 292 1826. One of the
best options in the centre, with hot water, fir m be ds, cable
TV, small balconies and a family atmosphere. $20
Santa Fe Roca, at Garcia Moreno T 06 292 3640, W hotel
santafeotavalo.com. The quiet location, excellent-quality
rooms furnished in pine and eucalyptus, good restaurant
and r eason able prices make this one of the best deals in
town. $30
Ì Hostal Valle del Amanecer Roca, at Quiroga
T 06 292 0990, W www.valledelamanecer.com. The most
pleasant budget accommodation in town with rooms set
around a co bble d, leafy courtyard. Outdoor fireplace and
hammocks. $20

Ì Deli Quiroga, at Bolívar. Little gem of a café a block
from the market specializing in Tex-Mex and Italian
(main dishes $4-8). Also crêpes, desserts and delicious
hot chocolate with marshmallows. Sun-Thurs 9.30am-
9pm, Fri-Sat 9.30am-11pm.
Inty Huasi Plaza de Ponchos, at Salinas. Locals head to
this well laid-out, large restaurant to fill up on meat and
seafood dishes priced around $5-7.
Mi Otavalito Sucre, at Morales. The best place in town
to enjoy well-presented Ecuadorian dishes ($5-7) in an
elegant but cosy setting. Live Andean music at weekends.
Pizza Siciliana Morales, at Sucre. Out of all the pizza
places in town, this has the best reputation with a rustic
atmosphere and roaring fire. Pizzas $5-10.
Quino Roca, at García Moreno. If you're craving seafood,
try the ceviche and fresh mountain trout here. Juices,
cocktails and mulled wines are also good. Mains $5-8.

6

DRINKING AND NIGHTLIFE
Peña Jala Jala 31 de Octubre. Head north of the centre
to catch live music and dance the night away to a mix of
local and international tunes. Fri-Sat 7pm-2am.
Peña La Jampa 31 de Octubre. Three blocks north of
the market, this is another great place to catch energetic
live performances from traditional Andean bands. Fri-Sat
7pm-2am.
The Red Pub Morales, at Jaramillo. English-style pub
with plenty of beer, rock music and live bands at weekends.
Daily 4pm-late.

IBARRA
Thirty minutes by bus northeast of
Otavalo lies IBARRA , the largest town
in the northern highlands, known as
La Ciudad Blanca (white city). Ibarra
is the biggest commercial town in the
region and of less interest to tourists,
but it does have some beautiful squares
and a fantastic ice-cream store.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO
Parque La Merced is impressive, fronted by
the nineteenth-century Basílica La Merced,
but eclipsed in terms of beauty by
Parque Pedro Moncayo , dominated by the
Baroque-influenced cathedral adorned
with a golden altar. The Museo Banco
Central on Sucre and Oviedo (Mon-Fri
8.30am-1.30pm & 2.30-4.30pm; $0.50)
has an exhibition of archeology from
prehistory to Inca times. A train service
that used to run all the way to San Lorenzo
on the north coast is under reconstruction.

EATING
Alli Allpa Plaza de Ponchos, at Salinas. Endearing little café
with great-value Ecuadorian meals and fresh lemonade.
Three-course set lunch $4.
Buena Vista Plaza de Ponchos, at Salinas. From the
balcony you can observe the market from afar and choose
from a wide-ranging menu. The brownies are a speciality.
$4-6.
Café Arte y Tarot Garcia Moreno, at Bolívar. A quirky,
creative atmosphere and a range of tasty crêpes ($3-5).
The most popular spot is the toilet seat at the upstairs
table.