Chile - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 465

Ì El Living Prat 156 (on the plaza) T 61 413609,
W el-living.com. Not just an excellent vegetarian restau-
rant, with changing daily specials, but also the town's
most popular café/lounge, playing chilled-out tunes, and
featuring the best local book exchange too. Smoothies,
sandwiches and salads stand out, and the owner makes
excellent cakes, too. Mains from CH$3900. Late Oct to mid-
April daily 11am-10pm (11.30pm Thurs).
Ì Mesita Grande Prat 196 T 61 411571, W mesita
grande.cl. Hordes of hungry hikers stage a daily invasion
of the best pizzeria in Patagonia, drawn by the generous
portions of superb thin-crust pizzas (CH$2300-5900), home-
made pasta and sumptuous desserts (including sweet pizza
with dulce de leche ). Customers sit along two long wooden
tables, which encourages conversation and creates a
communal dining experience. Daily noon-midnight.
Patagonia Dulce Arana 233 T 61 415285,
W patagoniadulce.cl. Those with a sweet tooth shouldn't
miss out on the home-made chocolates and ice cream
in this little gingerbread-house-like café (cakes and pies
CH$1500; chocolate “tasting” CH$1500). They say that if you
eat calafate berries, you'll return to Patagonia; whether the
same is true of calafate berry ice cream (CH$2500) is not
clear, but it's worth a try. Mind-blowing range of hot
chocolates (CH$2500). Mon-Sat 10am-9pm, Sun 2-8pm.
La Picada de Carlitos Encalada 444 T 61 415496. Ever-
popular place famed for its hearty Chilean dishes, such
as the cazuela de pollo (chicken stew), as well as the big
sandwiches. Menú del día CH$3000. Daily 10am-11.45pm.
Toqui Banquedano 699 T 9 94013486. Excellent family-
run budget option, with no-frills sandwiches (CH$2800-
3800), burgers and more substantial fish dishes
(CH$3000-4000). Daily noon-9pm.
Última Esperanza Eberhard 354 T 61 413626. Come
early to get seats in this extremely popular restaurant,
which serves some of the tastiest fish and seafood in
southern Chile (CH$4500-7500). Splash out on the chupe
de locos (abalone chowder) for CH$8000. Daily noon-
3.15pm & 6.30-11.30pm.

are on the small side, but the helpful owners are good
for trekking info. Guests have use of the kitchen and the
good break fast includes home-made bread. Doubles
CH$20,000
Erratic Rock Baquedano 719 T 61 414317, W erraticrock
.com. Excellent long-term favourite, with a laidback vibe,
legendary breakfasts and an in-house tour agency that
provides top-notch advice on Torres del Paine. Comfy
rooms, f free wi-fi and a large kitchen. Dorms CH$10,000 ,
doubles CH$26,000
Ì Lili Patagonico's Prat 479 T 61 414063, W lili
patagonicos.com. Contender for the best hostel in town,
this lively place features an indoor climbing wall, an
excellent breakfast, wi-fi and book exchange, and the
owners organize half- and full-day trips into the s urrounding
area. Th e doubles ar e particularly plush. Dorms CH$8000,
doubles CH$20,000
Patagonia Adventure Tomás Rogers 179 T 61 411028,
W apatagonia.com. Brightly decorated central hostel
run by young owners; a good breakfast is included and
other bonuses include internet, a camping gear outlet next
door and the host el's own adv enture ou tfit for kaya king
enthusiasts. Dorms CH$10,000 , doubles CH$24,000
Ì Hostal Shakana Miraflores 798 T 61 413291. Small
and personal: your host, Torres del Paine guide Chacana,
will personally cook you eggs for breakfast (and real
coffee) over a wood stove, offer advice and generally
organize your trip. His rooms ar e compact, warm and cosy.
Free wi-fi. Doubles CH$16,000
Singing Lamb Arauco 779 T 61 410958, W thesinging
lamb.com. Justly popular hostel with especially comfy
single beds in both dorms (no bunks), spotless showers
and filling breakfasts. Eco-friendly touches include
composting, recycling and r ainwater col lection. Free wi-fi
and use of computer. Dorms CH$11,000
Yagan House O'Higgins 584 T 61 414137. Highly
recommended hostel, with comfy beds, a fire blazing in
the welcoming lounge and owners who can arrange all
manner of tours ( bike rental f or CH$7000/day). Dorms
CH$10,000 , rooms CH$25,000

4

DRINKING
Baguales Bories 430 T 61 411920, W cervezabaguales
.cl. If the one thing that would make your Patagonian
hiking experience complete is returning to a cosy brewery
that serves ample platters of tasty buffalo wings
(CH$5500), quesadillas (CH$4400) and other assorted
Te x -Mex food, accompanied by rice and beans and home-
made guacamole, then you're in luck: look no further
than this Californian-Chilean pub on the Plaza de Armas.
Beers CH$1700. Mon-Sat 6pm-2am.
Base Camp Baquedano 719 T 61 411920. This pub draws
the crowds, with the backpackers from Erratic Rock next
door raising the roof during the odd rock and reggae gig,
or enjoying a post-hike beer or three. Daily noon-1am.

EATING
40 y 20 Fruta Seca Baquedano 443 T 61 210661.
Aka “the dried fruit guy”, this is the place to stock up
on a bewildering array of dried fruit and nuts for
the forthcoming hike. Dried mango is especially good.
CH$500/100g. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm.
El Asador Patagónico Prat 158 T 61 413553. Like most
hikers, you'll be drawn into this excellent restaurant
catering primarily to carnivores by the sight of the asador
patagónico - a lamb being spit-roasted in front of you,
Patagonian style. The expertly cooked steaks are just as
good; bring your appetite, as the portions are ample.
Mains CH$8500. Daily noon-3pm & 7-11.30pm.