Chile - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 446

ACCOMMODATION
13 Lunas Hostel Los Carrera 855 T 65 622106, W 13lunas
.cl. Attractive, clean, modern hostel (in a renovated wood
house from 1947), with dorms for four to six people and
comfy doubles, b reakfast, use of kitche n and wi-fi included.
Dorms CH$9500 , doubles CH$24,000
Balai Pudeto 169 T 65 622541, W hotelbalai.cl. “Quirky
and whimsical” comes to mind when you walk in and make
yourself at home among the boat figureheads, wooden
carvings and models of ships. The en-suites are spacious
and spotless, the location couldn't be more central and
given the extras thrown in - b asic breakfa st, wi-fi - the
prices are a good deal. Doubles CH$24,000
Camping Arena Gruesa Costanera Norte 290 T 65
623428, W hotelarenagruesa.cl. At this great clifftop
location, a few minutes' walk from the Arena Gruesa beach,
there are three choices of accommodation: a large campsite
with excellent sea views, hot water and individual shelters
with lights for each site; several fully equipped cabañas
for two/four/six/eight people; and well-kept rooms in the
white-shin gled hos tel with acce ss to wi-fi. fi. Camping/p erson
CH$4000 , doubles CH$22,000 , cabañas CH$33,000
Hospedaje Austral Aníbal Pinto 1318 T 65 624847,
W ancudchiloechile.com. Friendly wood-pannelled back-
packer hangout near to the Terminal Municipal (the local bus
station), with some of the cheapest rates in town (though a
basic brea kfast is a nother CH$1 000). Wi-fi included. Dorms
CH$8000 , doubles CH$18,000
Hostal y Cabañas Vista al Mar Costanera 918 T 65
622617, W vistaalmar.cl. Another excellent choice with an
ocean view, this hostel has something for everyone: clean
dorms for younger travellers and spacious en-suite rooms
with cable TV. Internet and breakfast are included, and if
you're travelling with friends a fully equippe d two- or five-
person cabaña is an ideal choice. Cabañas CH$35,000-
44,000 , dorms CH$10,000 , doubles CH$32,000
Ì Hostal Mundo Nuevo Salvador Allende (Costanera)
748 T 65 628383, W newworld.cl. An impeccable water-
front location, friendly and knowledgeable staff, truly
excellent breakfast, kitchen use for self-caterers, book
exchange, wi-fi, and spotless airy rooms and dorms all
make this Swiss-owned h ostel the m ost popular choice
for b ackpackers. Dorms CH$12,000 , do ubles (shared
bath) CH$31,000 , private bath CH$39,000
El Submarino Amarillo Las Américas 958 T 65 620436,
W subamarillo.net. One of the newer hostels in Ancud, the
“yellow submarine” is set in an old Chiloé-style house with
clean dorms , free wi-fi -fi and Ikea- like furnishings. Dorms
CH$10,000 , doubles CH$20,000

CURANTO WHAT'S IN A DISH?
Chiloé's signature dish, curanto , has been
prepared for several centuries using
cooking methods very similar to those
used in Polynesia. First, extremely hot
rocks are placed at the bottom of an
earthen pit; then, a layer of shellfish is
added, followed by chunks of meat,
longanisa (sausage), potatoes, chapaleles
(potato dumplings) and milcaos (fried
potato pancakes). The pit is then covered
with nalca (Chilean wild rhubarb) leaves,
and, as the shellfish cooks, the shells
spring open, releasing their juices onto
the hot rocks, steaming the rest of the
ingredients. Curanto en hoyo is slow-
cooked in the ground for a day or two,
but since traditional cooking methods are
only used in the countryside, you will
probably end up sampling curanto en olla ,
oven-baked in cast-iron pots. The dish
comes with hot broth, known to the locals
as “liquid Viagra”, that you drink during
the meal.

4

El Cangrejo Dieciocho 171 (2/F) T 65 623091. No-frills
seafood restaurant on the second floor, with a decent
menu of fish and shellfish stews and grills from CH$3500.
Daily 10am-10pm.
La Hormiguita Pudeto 44 T 65 626999. Simple café
and pastelería , serving giant sandwiches, empanadas and
fruit-filled cream cakes from CH$1500. Daily noon-3pm
& 7-10.30pm.
Kurantón Prat 94 T 65 623090. The slogan on the wall
reads: “Curanto: helping people to have good sex since
1826”. When the bow-tied waiter places the best curanto
en olla in town in front of you, you'll be wondering
whether those people had to wait to digest the mountain
of shellfish, meat and potato dumplings first. Don't forget
to drink your “liquid Viagra” - the potent shellfish stock
that comes with your dish. Curanto CH$6000. Daily 12.30-
3pm & 7-10.30pm.
Mercado Municipal The basic cafeterias in the courtyard
behind the market, and the slightly better places above
it, tend to be packed at lunchtime if the weather's good.
They all serve a variety of inexpensive fish and seafood
dishes; Rincon Sureno (2/F) and La Pica de la Corita (at the
back) are good bets. Empanadas from CH$1000, fish dishes
from CH$4000. Daily 8am-8pm.
La Pincoya Prat 61 T 65 622613. Opposite Kurantón ,
La Pincoya overlooks the harbour and serves excellent
salmon ceviche , curanto and delicious cancato (steamed
salmon stuffed with sausage, cheese and tomatoes). Ceviche
CH$4500; curanto CH$6000. Daily 1-3pm & 7-11pm.

EATING AND DRINKING
Ancud contains a huge Unimarc supermarket (on Prat,
behind the Feria Rural & Artesanal), open daily 9am-10pm.
Many restaurants in Ancud shut for half or all day on Sun.