Chile - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 397

Neruda accumulated here, and the degree
of thought that went into every aspect of
the design - from the arrangement of
wooden ships' figureheads in the living
room, to the positioning of blue glass
bottles along the seaward side of the
house. The poet's exotic collection of
objects includes African wooden carvings,
ships in bottles, a gigantic moai kavakava
statue from Easter Island (see p.479) and
an amazing array of seashells, housed in a
purpose-built room that Neruda designed
but never completed. A strong nautical
theme runs throughout; there is even a
small boat out on the terrace so that the
poet could be “a sailor on land”.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
By bus Pullman Peñuelas run from Valparaíso to San
Antonio (every 40min: 6.35am-10pm; 1hr 40min); ask to
be dropped off in Isla Negra. To return to Valparaíso, wait at
the bus stop on the other side of the road, and buy your
ticket on the bus. Pullman buses also pass by Isla Negra
direct from Santiago.

attractions which are likely to keep tourists
in this region longer than they expected.

LA SERENA
LA SERENA , 474km north of Santiago,
is considered one of Chile's prime
beach resorts , though its charms also
include an impressive number of churches
and several worthwhile museums. It is
also an excellent base for exploring the
surrounding countryside. The city was
founded in 1544, and during the
following century it was the target of
multiple raids by the French and English,
including the pirate Francis Drake.

Downtown La Serena
With a tranquil vibe to its central streets,
La Serena is an easy place to wander
around on foot. Exploring its peaceful
churches is a good way to get to know
the town. The largest church is the
Neo classical Iglesia Catedral , at the corner
of Los Carrera and Cordovez, of the
Plaza de Armas, which has a beautiful,
marble-decorated interior. Iglesia de San
Francisco , Balmaceda 640, was the first
church to be built out of stone, and
Iglesia Santo Domingo , Cordovez s/n,
dates back to 1673.
he Casa Gabriel González Videla ,
Matta 495, on the west side of the Plaza
de Armas (Mon-Fri 10am-6pm, Sat
10am-1pm; CH$600), is well worth
a visit. Originally the home of former
president González Videla, who was born
in the town, it is now a museum housing
an impressive collection of fine art and
contemporary painting. About two
blocks west from the square, the tranquil
and beautifully sculpted Japanese-style
Jardín El Corazón (daily 10am-6pm;
CH$1000) is the perfect place to while
away a sunny afternoon.
At the junction of Cienfuegos with
Cordovez, the recently renovated Museo
Arqueológico (Tues-Fri 9.30am-5.50pm,
Sat 10am-1pm & 4-7pm, Sun 10am-
1pm; CH$600, Sun free, ticket also
valid for Casa Gabriel Gonzáles Videla)
displays elaborate Diaguita ceramics, as
well as a 2.5m moai statue from Easter
Island and lapis lazuli jewellery.

4

Norte Chico
Dominated by dry scrubland and sparse
vegetation, the Norte Chico region,
which stretches roughly from the northern
tip of Santiago to the southern reaches of
the Atacama, might seem unremarkable
from a bus window. Visitors are, however,
drawn here for its stargazing , long sandy
beaches, and trips to its far-flung national
parks. The biggest population centre is
the relaxed seaside town of La Serena with
its bustling market and colonial-style
architecture, while the fertile Elqui Valley ,
which once inspired Nobel-Prize-winning
poet Gabriela Mistral, is now the focal
point for the country's favourite tipple,
pisco. The islands of Damas and Choros
brim over with seals, penguins and
cormorants. Further north, the mining
town of Copiapó , currently undergoing
one of its regular copper-induced booms,
is the jumping-off point for the stunning
kaleidoscopic landscapes of Parque
Nacional Nevado de Tres Cruces , and
Parque Nacional Pan de Azúcar . Horse-
riding, trekking and kayaking are all