Chile - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 396

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION
By bus Long-distance buses pull up at Terminal Rodoviario
( T 32 2752000) at Av Valparaíso 1055; it has a tourist
information booth and an ATM.
Destinations Arica (5 daily; 24hr); Iquique (5 daily; 24hr);
La Serena (5 daily; 7hr); Osorno (6 daily; 14hr); Puerto
Montt (6 daily; 16hr); Santiago (about 20 daily; 1hr 45min).
By metrotrén The commuter train from Valparaíso stops
at Estación Miramar, Estación Viña del Mar and Estación
Hospital along Alvares; Miramar is the closest station to
the beaches. You need to buy a metro card (CH$1200).
Tourist information The main tourist o ce is at Arlegui
715 (Mon-Fri 9am-2pm & 3-7pm, Sat & Sun 10am-2pm
& 3-6pm; T 32 2185709, W visitevinadelmar.cl). Staff are
helpful and can provide maps, and advise on accommo-
dation and camping options.

Jerusalem Quinta 259. Tasty Middle Eastern cuisine is
dispensed from this tiny food counter; the falafel is excellent
(CH$2490).
Only Sushi San Martín 560. This simple sushi bar offers
reasonable Japanese cuisine at affordable prices, and
offers delivery across town. Eighteen-piece tabla CH$5500.

DRINKING, NIGHTLIFE AND
ENTERTAINMENT
Café Journal Agua Santa 2 T 32 2666654, W cafejournal
.cl. Thriving university student haunt, complete with pub
grub and regular live music. Mon-Thurs 10am-4am, Fri
& Sat 10am-5am, Sun 7pm-4am.
Cinemark 15 Norte 961, Local 224. Multiplex cinema
showing the latest releases.
Stingray 5 Norte, between 4 Poniente and 5 Poniente.
With space to drink, and a dancefloor, this is the latest
place to attract the weekend, party-going crowds. Entry
CH$2000-3500.
Tutix 6 Poniente, corner with 5 Norte, next to Starbucks .
White leather sofas and wooden tables adorn the bar area;
the dancefloor gets heaving later on. Electronic dance
music dominates. From 9pm until late.

ACCOMMODATION
Che Lagarto Hostel Diego Portales 131 T 32 2625759,
W chelagarto.com. Clean dorms, a pleasant garden, kitchen
use, communal lounge, free internet and wi-fi are all pluses
at this hotel - but it a ttracts a y oung bac kpacker crow d and
can get noisy. Dorms CH$6200 , doubles CH$26,000
Jaguar Hostel Pasaje Massot 12, small street off 2
Poniente, between 4 Norte and 5 Norte T 9 97279219,
E [e-mail]. Elegant house in a
quiet neighbourh ood just five blocks from the beach.
Dorms CH$12000 , doubles CH$35000
Kalagen Hostel Av Valparaiso 618 T 32 2991669,
W kalagenhostel.com. Smart, large and lively hostel on
Vina's main shopping drag, with spacious communal areas,
wi-fi, inte rnet and organized to urs. Expect parties. Dorms
CH$9900 , doubles CH$37,000
My Father's House Gregorio Marañón 1210 T 32 2616136,
W myfathershouse.cl. Spacious, quiet single, double and
triple rooms, swimming pool, internet and gracious owners.
The only drawback is that it's about 2km from the centre o f
town; catch colectivo #31, #82 or #131. Doubles CH$28,000

4

DIRECTORY
Banks and exchange Numerous banks, most with ATMs
and cambios, are found along Av Arlegui.
Hospital Hospital Gustavo Fricke is on Álvarez 1532,
at Simón Bolívar ( T 32 2675067); for emergencies call
T 32 2652328.
Internet access and telephone centre There are
several internet cafés and telephone centres along
Valparaíso.
Post o ce Plaza La Torre 32, just off the main square
(Mon-Fri 9am-7pm Sat 10am-1pm).

ISLA NEGRA
The seaside village of ISLA NEGRA
(which, incidentally, is not an island),
about 80km south of Valparaíso, was
the site of Pablo Neruda's favourite
and most permanent home. he Casa
Museo Pablo Neruda , at Calle Poeta
Neruda s/n (Tues-Sun: Jan & Feb
10am-8pm; March-Dec 10am-6pm;
CH$3500 including tour in English;
students CH$1500, reservations
essential in summer; T 35 461284,
W fundacionneruda.org), lies down a
wooded trail by the sea, a short walk
from the main road. Larger than his other
two homes, Isla Negra is fascinating for
the sheer amount of exotic objects that

EATING
Amura Cafe Av Peru, off Plaza Colombia. Simple café
with seating outside offering very good-value lunch deals.
Sandwich, cake and coffee CH$4500.
Anayak Quinta 134. A good, unpretentious spot for cake,
light snacks and real coffee. Large coffee CH$1900.
Fellini 3 Norte 88 T 32 2975742. Bustling Italian serving
up exquisite pasta dishes in an intimate setting with
superb presentation and service. Worth booking ahead.
Mains CH$8000-9500.
El Gaucho San Martín 435 T 32 2693502. The ideal place
to satisfy your carnivorous cravings, this Argentine-style
steakhouse doesn't come cheap but serves succulent
steaks, chorizo and sweetbreads, among other offerings.
Steak CH$7900.