Chile - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 389

VALPARAÍSO
Few travellers can fail to be inspired by
the ramshackle beauty of VALPARAÍSO ,
whose mishmash patchwork of brightly
coloured houses is built across a series of
hills; steep stairways and the city's famous
ascensores (elevators) link the hills to the
port area. Still a major port today, the city
came into its own during the California
Gold Rush, and in the mid-nineteenth
century was the main hub for ships
crossing between the Atlantic and Pacific
oceans. Valparaíso's narrow labyrinth
of atmospheric alleyways offers glimpses
of the city's decline from the grandeur of
its former glories.

enjoyable as meandering up and down
the area's winding narrow streets, or
riding its antique funiculars (see box
below). Visitors can stop to marvel at
the impressive views of the city from
a multitude of miradores (viewpoints),
or duck into little shops and cafés to
admire the colourful murals - a striking
example of the city's bohemian culture.
It is easy to see how Valparaíso has
produced more writers, artists and poets
than any other Chilean city.
Cerro Concepción and Cerro Alegre are
the best known of the hills, with the
highest concentration of churches and
museums, but they are by no means
the only gems. Nearby Cerro Panteón ,
reached by a network of winding paths,
is home to three colourful cemeteries,
the most interesting of which is the
Cementerio de Disidentes , resting place
of non-Catholic European immigrants.
Nearby Cerro Cárcel is the site of a former
prison, now decorated with colourful
graffiti and a hangout for artists and
thespians. Its Parque Cultural (Mon-Fri
9am-7pm, Sat & Sun 11am-7pm;
T 322 258567) sometimes hosts outdoor
theatre performances.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO
Valparaíso is effectively split into two
halves: the hills ( cerros ), and the flat
El Plan. Most restaurants and hostels
can be found on Cerro Concepción and
Cerro Alegre . Visitors usually spend their
time here meandering along the winding
passageways, and enjoying the spectacular
views from the rickety ascensores . El Plan ,
which includes the busy port area, is
home to an extensive nightlife quarter as
well as the shopping and administrative
districts, all linked by traffic-choked
narrow streets.

4

La Sebastiana
La Sebastiana , Ferrari 692, off Alemania
(Tues-Sun: Jan & Feb 10.30am-6.50pm;
March-Dec 10.10am-6pm; CH$3500;
T

The hills
Without a doubt, Valparaíso's biggest
attraction is its hills . Few pastimes are as 322 256606, W fundacionneruda.org),

LOS ASCENSORES DE VALPARAÍSO
Once numbering thirty-three and now down to about a dozen, Valparaíso's ascensores ,
or funiculars, were built between 1883 and 1916. As well as being one of the city's enduring
attractions, they remain an essential way of getting about. After years of neglect, many are
undergoing much needed renovation so some may be closed. Most run daily from 7am to
11pm and cost between CH$100 and CH$300 per journey.
Ascensor Polanco The only ascensor that
is an actual elevator, Polanco is reached
through a long underground tunnel from
Calle Simpson, off Avenida Argentina. It rises
vertically through the yellow tower to a
mirador offering excellent views of the port.
Ascensor Concepción (also known as
Ascensor Turri). The city's oldest funicular,
built in 1883 and originally steam-powered,
is one of the most popular. It climbs up to
Paseo Gervasoni on Cerro Concepción,

a delightful residential area and the start of
many walking tours that cover Cerro Alegre
as well. The lower entrance is opposite the
Relój Turri clock tower.
Ascensor Artillería Extremely popular with
visitors, this funicular rivals Ascensor Barón
for views. It runs from Plaza Aduana up to
Cerro Playa Ancha, and offers a beautiful
panoramic view of the city and coastline,
with Viña del Mar in the distance. The Museo
Naval y Marítimo (see p.396) is nearby.